To stop the rusting process

[TwoShadows]

I like to warm the parts I have rusted/browned by warming the metal enough to melt beeswax rubbed over it. This imediately stops the rusting as it forms an airtight surface. It also imparts a nice dark color to the browning that can't quite be achieved with oil.

Any excess or too much buildup is easily removed by applying more heat or simply using a hair dryer to create a smooth surface on the finished part.

I'm sure there are as many ways as there are builders to stop the rusting/browning.....what's your's ?

 

[musketman]

I like to warm the parts I have rusted/browned by warming the metal enough to melt beeswax rubbed over it. This imediately stops the rusting as it forms an airtight surface. It also imparts a nice dark color to the browning that can't quite be achieved with oil.

Sounds like a good barrel water-proofing system...

Hey, I think you might be on to something there...

 

[Birddog6]

I guess it depends on what you induced the rusting process with. Most rusting chemicals have to be neutralized to stop them & then you seal with hot wax or whatever. I neutralize mine by pouring boiling hot water with baking soda disolved in it, over the part. Then rinse with hot tap water, it dries in a mminute & then I rub in hot Kiwi Dark Brown Shoe Polish Paste wax or Beeswax. I also rerub the barrel 2 times a day for the next 3 days.

I have seen lots of gun keep right on rusting right under the linseed oil, gun oil, beeswax, etc. because the rusting process was not neutralized. Eash has their ways of doing things.... whatever works for ya.

 

[TwoShadows]

never saw one rust any more after I melt a coat of beeswax onto it....can't if no air can get to it. Of course I do use a lot and make sure it is covered...THEN I use the hair dryer to melt off the excess.

 

[Randy]

I'm glad someone else has the same problem. Some barrels seem to keep on rusting for a week or so no matter what I do. I generally use Lauerl Mt Barrel brown and degreaser but sometimes use Wakon Bay true brown or birchwood Casey's Plum Brown : All seem to behave about the same but some barrels seem to rust more after I'm done. I seem to have more trouble with Coleraine barrels but haven't any controlled experiments to prove it. I always wash the barrel with baking soda when finished rusting and then warm it and apply linseed oil. I keep a watch on it for about a week wiping it down with a rag and more oil but some still rust after that.
The next two I do will get the beeswax treatment. One is an Orion barrel and the other Coleraine.

 

[Birddog6]

How hard you card the barrel may have something to do with it also. I work mine pretty hard as I don't like a rough texture on the barrel, but want it kinda smooth. I use a Dixcel wire wheel from Brownells to card with & usually use Wahkon Bays Tru-Brown solution.

 

[TwoShadows]

I like to use clorox to brown with. I have used the wet towel over the barrel method sucessfully and also by boiling. Once boiled a pistol barrel in it..fired up the coleman stove outside...just had it to a boil and the phone rang....I forgot about it for about 45 minutes. Flushed it off with water and then laid a heavy coat of beeswax on it....believe it or not( cost is the same) it came out really nice...barrel looks really old and I get a lot of nice comments on it. It is pitted and looks 200 years old. Not for everyone i'm sure, but it make for a neat pistol and is of course a safe shooter.

 

[Zonie]

I'm glad you mentioned the pitting that bleach causes.
It does turn out an interesting brown but as you say, it looks like it's 200 years old because it rusts unevenly and seems to cut into the steel deep in some areas and not in others.

As for regular browning, my method to stop the rusting is lots of soap and water. Several washings then dry with rags. I then coat it with linseed oil, wipe off the excess and let it set overnight.
This seems to make the color more uniform.
After 2 applications of linseed I wax the part with a good paste wax several times.

Works for me.