Fowler ramrod ends

[Loja man]

Hey all,
I have yet to start on my Chambers PA Fowler that was delivered Christmas week. I have been doing a lot of reading and thinking about it. Here’s my current question.
The ram rod…. I am under the impression that most American made Fowlers had plain straight ends or flared ends for ramming. British guns were more likely to have brass or horn tulip ends. I like the thought of a flared rod or tulip end for better seating cards and wads.
So - the hickory rods supplied by Chambers’s, I ordered 3, are the same detention all the way.
Option 1: I order a new oversized rod and taper it. Or can I order a taperd rod?
2: I add a tulip end. I have all metal trim on the Fowler so I don’t like the thought of brass. How about adding a Osage Orange tulip end?
Next how about the end that gose down in the stock. What would be period correct? I would like to use a ball puller and tow worm. What are my options?
Thanks
Aaron

 

[64Springer]

Nothing looks more cool than a ramrod tipped in antler/bone.

Just something about it.

Or a really hard wood that would compliment the colors of the gun. Ebony would probably work in all applications.

 

[Loja man]

Nothing looks more cool than a ramrod tipped in antler/bone.

Just something about it.

Or a really hard wood that would compliment the colors of the gun. Ebony would probably work in all applications.

Ebony would look good. I could order some. I’m am planning on a red finish. Hard woods on had that would be a contrast are Osage orange or Bolivian Legnum vita.

 

[64Springer]

Was not familiar with the Bolivian wood.

Did a search. Very much like rosewood.

 

[Loja man]

Was not familiar with the Bolivian wood.

Did a search. Very much like rosewood.

It is much harder than rose wood. The Bolivian variety is very green. It’s browner when you first mill it. UV light makes it green. Here is a knife handle I used some on.

 

[Hatchet-Jack]

I can only speak from my very limited experience with my Fowler so far but a flared end makes it easy to push a thin over powder card down the barrel and keeps it from turning sideways. I added a flared brass jag tip to my ramrod. Period correct who knows? Most ramrods didn't survive and have been replaced. I now want a tip on the other end so I can add other jaggs but it is very tapered in order to fit so I ordered some of Jim Kibler's metal tapered tips to see if I could make that work. I like your idea of an Osage flared tip.

 

[Loja man]

I can only speak from my very limited experience with my Fowler so far but a flared end makes it easy to push a thin over powder card down the barrel and keeps it from turning sideways. I added a flared brass jag tip to my ramrod. Period correct who knows? Most ramrods didn't survive and have been replaced. I now want a tip on the other end so I can add other jaggs but it is very tapered in order to fit so I ordered some of Jim Kibler's metal tapered tips to see if I could make that work. I like your idea of an Osage flared tip.

Thanks Jack! I ordered a flared brass tip from TLCS but I am not in love with the profile. I could sand it down. The more I thought about it being brass with the rest of the fitting metal….thinking of other options. Let me know what you think of the Kiblers metal tapered tip.

 

[Hatchet-Jack]

Thanks Jack! I ordered a flared brass tip from TLCS but I am not in love with the profile. I could sand it down. The more I thought about it being brass with the rest of the fitting metal….thinking of other options. Let me know what you think of the Kiblers metal tapered tip.

You could attach it to a piece of dowel and chuck it up in a drill press like a metal lathe and use files to reshape it, then use brass black so it looks good with your metal furniture.
I'll keep you posted on the Kibler tip!

 

[Ross5403]

Had a little fun with my New England Fowler from Chambers. Used antler tip. Not completely HC but I enjoy it may make a more HC ramrod later.

 

[dave_person]

Hi,
Here are some examples of originals and those I've made. Bison horn works very well and I also used gemsbok horn as well. Many trumpet tips were hollow all the way through with the end of the wooden rod showing. They are not hard to make if you have a wood lathe. The ferrules were usually made from sheet iron, rolled and then soldered. I believe the coiled tow worms were also soldered in place, at least that is how I make them. They are made from spring steel rod and are hardened and tempered before soldering in place.

I much prefer a rod that swells at the muzzle end. It looks so much better and works better as well. For a 3/8" rod, use a 7/16" or 1/2" blank and taper it. For a 5/16" rod (most fowlers), I start with a 7/16" blank. The swelled rod tucks nicely under the muzzle with no ugly gap between it and the stock.

dave

 

[Kevin]

Muzzleloader building supply has these fowler tips. I love um, jag built in.

 

[Capt. Jas.]

I would also add that using a metal disc on the swelled end was also common. I believe Kit Ravenshear mentioned these in his little booklets.
Here is an 18th century British painting by Mercier showing the iron tipped gunrod. For an American gun, I would personally go with a plain, flared forward end for ramming or maybe add the iron disc. I would go with a fixed worm like Dave describes for the small end that goes down the pipes.

 

[Hatchet-Jack]

Hi @dave_person were the tapered ends (opposite of the ramming end) on originals threaded to attach a worm? or is the worm attached permanently?

 

[Loja man]

I much prefer a rod that swells at the muzzle end. It looks so much better and works better as well. For a 3/8" rod, use a 7/16" or 1/2" blank and taper it. For a 5/16" rod (most fowlers), I start with a 7/16" blank. The swelled rod tucks nicely under the muzzle with no ugly gap between it and the stock.

Thanks Dave, this is extremely helpful. Another random question any rhyme or reason to the site placement on the three guns you showed?

 

[Loja man]

I would also add that using a metal disc on the swelled end was also common. I believe Kit Ravenshear mentioned these in his little booklets.
Here is an 18th century British painting by Mercier showing the iron tipped gunrod. For an American gun, I would personally go with a plain, flared forward end for ramming or maybe add the iron disc. I would go with a fixed worm like Dave describes for the small end that goes down the pipes.
View attachment 190564

Thanks for sharing the info and photo!! I am leaning towards a plain flared wooden ram rod!! I do like the contrast of the black trumped end though. I’m just bummed that I now have three extra hickory rods! I bet they’re the same size as my GPR ram rod.

 

[Ohio Rusty]

I have a plain flared end on my smoothbore rod.
Ohio Rusty ><>

 

[Pukka Bundook]

Loja man,
What Dave P. said above.
Must add that even on all iron mounted, brass tulip tips were very common for ramrods. Brass soon goes black on the ramming end anyway.

 

[andy52]

I don't know if this will help but it shows a tapered ebony rod being made.

 

[Loja man]

I don't know if this will help but it shows a tapered ebony rod being made.

That was a cool video! It was helpful!! It’s always interesting to see how someone else dose something.

 

[andy52]

If those weren't really high-dollar shotguns I doubt Larry would have gone into that much detail.