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Gun Graying solution + method ?

the hawken shop
L & R
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Oil didn't take it off . . . needs to be scrubbed off w scotchbrite or steel wool . . . I took it down to this level.

I am quite pleased with this mustard aging look. . .and it was pretty easy ! Thanks for this suggestion.

IMG_2190_zpsfvc8wamm.jpg
 
I myself have simply used cold bluing ....easy and simple. Clean gun barrel real well with rubbing alcohol wipe bluing on and leave set for a few minutes then wipe it back...do it a couple of times. I've done several like that and they turn out real nice.
 
Yes, my barrel was new . . . I degreased it then hit it with mustard and hung it up overnight . . . . (I had filed some flats months ago, but on a Rice barrel they do a lot to make the outside look good.)

I could keep going with the scotch pad all the way back to shiny . . . or anywhere in between. I may take some of the "rust" look back a bit when I see what it looks like in the finished stock or I may leave it as is . . . not sure yet.
 
Mac1967 said:
Photo bucket stinks . . . I can only get my pics to work on this forum about 40% of the time.
Click to expand...

Sign on to Imgur. https://imgur.com I gave up on photobucket months ago. This Imgur web site is easy to use and works 99% of the time. The other 1% is when the web site goes down (maintenance?) on occasion.

FWIW
 
I did the mustard aging thing on the lock plate, Frizzen and hammer . . .

It looked good, but I slipped with my screw driver and scratched it (stupid !!) when reassembling.

So I tried to "fix" it . . . ( I should have left it alone . . . something I often say.)

I sanded the area down and put mustard on it . . . it does not want to take this time . . . I've degreased and reapplied, but it stays shiny. . . I may have to redo the whole lock plate at once. . .
 
Use the cold-blue method - colors nearly instantly, can be touched-up as needed and scrubbed back to whatever shade/color you need.

While it may work to stain gun parts, Mustard is better suited for Sausages...
 
Good points . . . I do agree that bluing beats mustard for consistency and the purpose it was intended. I am not 100% wedded to keeping what I have done to my lock & barrel . . . they look aged like things left in a wet tackle box for years . . . kind of neat, but I am not sure yet how it will look when the stock is finished.
 
I used the cold-blue method on my barrel/lock (built in 2007) and have carried the rifle in all weather conditions.
 
Actually, in retrospect, I used it on the barrel for certain. I believe I left the lock bright and allowed it to age naturally. After all this time, there is little difference in appearance between the lock & barrel. My primary concern was taking the shine off the barrel to avoid shimmer. When done, the barrel was a light gray color.

I did read in several posts that cold-bluing should not be used on springs, as they may crack. Not certain why this would happen, but I wasn't going to take a chance.
 
Very nice rifle . . . My fowler is my 2nd build . . .my first was a TVM late Lancaster about two years ago . . .I used BC Super Blue on the barrel and lock. I thought of cutting it back but left it black and heavy. It's not the greatest protection of the elements but it works.

Two years later my preferences have moved more traditional and I'm more interested in a non blue rifle, but still am not a fan of browning which looks like rust to me. . . I'm at liking "aged" now.

I have a little ways to go on my fowler yet . . . may cut off the mustard aged look which is kind of a light rust look and go with more of the grey that cold blue cut back gives . . .it's a nice look. The rust look I have is neat but kind of looks like the rifle has been uncared for.
 
The rifle pictured was originally browned, but it just didn't look right so I stripped the browning with Naval Jelly and aged the barrel lightly. Browning isn't appropriate for all guns, especially earlier styles. If I was to build a fowler, I'd go with an aged barrel and Walnut stock.
 

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