MUST HAVE features on a possibles bag?

tenngun · Aug 26, 2021

Aldarith said:
Wow, so much good advice - the thread has rather exceeded my expectations for sheer number and weight of responses. Certainly a good experience to have!

Thank you everyone for your time and knowledge.

Just picking and addressing a few points that jumped out (though I have read and liked every post so far so you know it has been attended to!)

1. Who makes good period buckles?

2. Very wise, will do.

3. My initial notion was to cut each piece of whatever pattern I use twice and double up on each surface, in this way I can make a main body and at least three very thin, nigh unoticeable divisions. My plan for them would be to leave them empty in most cases, but the space would be there in case a need arose and I could always designate one for a special purpose I didn't know I needed later. This wouldn't cost me a helluva lot more to do and the increase in weight would be negligable, especially if I use a lighter leather for the internal face.

4. Aye, I do like the finished look. I'll be working with my uncle who is an accomplished leather stitchler and so it's bound to be a sturdy looker.

5. This advice really stood out to me - What is your reason for eschewing a liner?
Personally I am not planning to line anything but the underside of the front flap, the reason being mostly aesthetic but to give the additional function of being able to stitch or hang things on the underside of the flap if needed (think fishooks, needles and thread or something similar.) . Also for decorative embroidery when bored in camp. I assume that you have a specific reason for not lining the body, however, and I'd love to hear it.

Would you be able to link myself to the article? Very interested.

This is OK, the 'period-ness' requirement is soft for me. I want it to look and feel period in most ways but wouldn't eschew modern conventions that might benefit me just for the purpose of making it period. I'm liable to make sure the hardware is period and everything handstitched, also that the pattern is something resembling period, but the materials and method will likely approach modern in some ways.

No one is 100% historicly correct and every person makes a choice on where he goes with modern convinince over historic.
We all flub up some where, or we swallow and go ‘we are folks in the here and now ant this is supposed to be fun not a chore.
That said we find somethings they did in the past really worked out well. Somethings were just cause it was all they had and we can do better with a bit of flubbing
Always follow you gut, most fun, easiest to use and pleasing to your eye

Artificer · Aug 26, 2021

Aldarith said:
Wow, so much good advice - the thread has rather exceeded my expectations for sheer number and weight of responses. Certainly a good experience to have!

Before going further, here is a great book I heartily recommend:

Recreating the 18th Century Hunting Pouch, how to create a fine aged American Rifleman's bag, full color, photos of 20 antique bags, by T. C. Albert - Track of the Wolf

Aldarith said:
3. My initial notion was to cut each piece of whatever pattern I use twice and double up on each surface, in this way I can make a main body and at least three very thin, nigh unoticeable divisions. My plan for them would be to leave them empty in most cases, but the space would be there in case a need arose and I could always designate one for a special purpose I didn't know I needed later. This wouldn't cost me a helluva lot more to do and the increase in weight would be negligable, especially if I use a lighter leather for the internal face.

Well, why not get the right weight/thickness of leather and not have to deal with that? Will have to write another post on leather choices later.

Aldarith said:
5. This advice really stood out to me - What is your reason for eschewing a liner?
Personally I am not planning to line anything but the underside of the front flap, the reason being mostly aesthetic but to give the additional function of being able to stitch or hang things on the underside of the flap if needed (think fishooks, needles and thread or something similar.) . Also for decorative embroidery when bored in camp. I assume that you have a specific reason for not lining the body, however, and I'd love to hear it.

First part of my answer is the same as to Number 3. The second part is I don't know of any original/extant 18th century bag that had a liner.

Gus

Cruzatte · Aug 26, 2021

Aldarith said:
Hail friends,

Black powder newbie here, designing a possibles bag which I will be putting together with my Uncle.

I'd like to ask what 'features' you look for in a possibles bag, whether buying or making so that I might integrate some of them in my design.

Pictured is a nice antique bag that sole a while back which I have been giving a lookover.

View attachment 91537 View attachment 91538 View attachment 91539 View attachment 91540

I think it all depends on the type of longarm we're talking about, here. My rifle bag is a double bag. My smoothbore bag is a single pouch made from one large piece of leather, the flap folds over the front and buttons. Contents of either are at a minimum, in include ball, patching/wads, a turnscrew to fit the cock jaw screw, an extra flint, cleaning patches, and that's about it.

Lakeman · Aug 26, 2021

I think it depends on what your needs are. The bag with the beaded flap I made back about 1981. It's simple with one main compartment, a small pocket inside, and a sheath for my patch knife on the strap. I use it for my .45 cal. flintlock rifle. The other one is closer to being a German hunting bag. Small button down pocket under main flap, main compartment with small pocket inside, and a full-width pocket across the back. Note the multiple rings on the strap. This one is used with my 20 ga smoothbore.

longcruise · Aug 26, 2021

If you plan to stitch inside out don't go to heavy on your leather. To heavy makes it very hard to turn. Also, wet the sewn pouch out thoroughly before turning it. Makes it much easier.

Adding a gusset around the bottom 1/3 or so gives you a roomier bag.

X2 on TC Alberts book. https://www.amazon.com/Recreating-18th-Century-Hunting-Pouch/dp/0976579715

You will have everything you need to know in your hands with that book.

Remember, it is a shooting bag. It doesn't need to carry everything under the sun. Keep it simple and reloading will be quick and easy. I like to sew two pockets onto the inside back of the bag for whatever you want to use them for.

This next isn't HC at all but for a simple and fast adjustment buckle try a Conway buckle. No stitching needed, just holes punched in the straps.

Aldarith · Aug 26, 2021

Artificer said:
Before going further, here is a great book I heartily recommend:

Recreating the 18th Century Hunting Pouch, how to create a fine aged American Rifleman's bag, full color, photos of 20 antique bags, by T. C. Albert - Track of the Wolf

Bought! Thanks for the reccomendation. Also now I recognize where all the patterns on the heart bags are coming from!

Cruzatte said:
I think it all depends on the type of longarm we're talking about, here. My rifle bag is a double bag. My smoothbore bag is a single pouch made from one large piece of leather, the flap folds over the front and buttons. Contents of either are at a minimum, in include ball, patching/wads, a turnscrew to fit the cock jaw screw, an extra flint, cleaning patches, and that's about it.

This will be for a smoothbore, my first in fact.
I am only planning on the basics, but I want the bag to be designed to be flexible so that I can adjust a thing or two later if I decide I want to.
That's why I was thinking of integrating the hidden tuckaways into the design and having some subtle loops for lashing here and there.

tenngun · Aug 26, 2021

My smoothie bags with contents

Artificer · Aug 26, 2021

Aldarith said:
Bought! Thanks for the reccomendation. Also now I recognize where all the patterns on the heart bags are coming from!

This will be for a smoothbore, my first in fact.
I am only planning on the basics, but I want the bag to be designed to be flexible so that I can adjust a thing or two later if I decide I want to.
That's why I was thinking of integrating the hidden tuckaways into the design and having some subtle loops for lashing here and there.

My second bag and what is still one of my all time favorites, was designed that way. I only had money for the leather for one pouch, but shot both my own Brown Bess Carbine and a Flint Rifle in competition out of the same pouch. Further, I wanted it to do additional duty for reenacting with the Brown Bess for both the French and Indian War and the AWI. Pretty tall order for a single bag, I know.

I began with a BROWN leather "sort of" military Cartridge Pouch Design and probably used a bit too thick of leather, but I got a great deal on it. Unlike a military Cartridge Pouch though, I put a divider up close to the inside of the outer edge. I joke that is the "ready area" for balls, wads and cards. Behind that is a larger open area made by using a wide welt that is wide enough for the double row/removable cartridge block I used for reenacting.

When the Cartridge Block is not in the pouch, you can see the (2) loops I sewed one each into both the left and right side of welt area. That way when it is on my side, the loops are front and back. I put a totally non authentic Ball Starter for either gun I was shooting in the left side/back loop and an adjustable powder measure in the right side/front loop. Made it easy to grab and replace either without looking into the pouch.

I thought about making one of those "gathered" leather pockets on the outside of the pouch and under the flap for my British Y shaped musket tool, as sometime to often found on Military Cartridge Pouches. Instead I sewed a pocket to the inside back of the pouch for it.

I used two Cartridge Pouch Strap Buckles as was most often used in the FIW.
The end result is what looks like a "homemade" FIW Militia Pouch, but with more style than commonly found on them.

Gus

Tenring · Aug 8, 2024

user 49399 said:
I only carry a few basic items but I prefer a larger bag. I’ve tried small bags but the larger ones make it easier for me to get to those items. My bags carry enough makings for about fifty shots.

I used to just have items loose in the bag. Over time, I’ve found out that I prefer to keep items like balls, patches, flints and tools in separate containers inside the bag. This works better for me.

I’ve tried putting knives on the strap, but these were always in the way. I’d rather carry a knife in my pocket or on my belt.

I feel the same way about a bigger Bag it so hard to dig around a small pouch style Bag and fight to get things out.

Smokey Plainsman · Aug 10, 2024

I carry a small Lyman belt pouch with loose ball and loose pre-cut patches along with a small rag for wiping the pan and hammer. Nothing else in the pouch.

From my horn hangs a measure and pick. Patch box on rifle carries worm, two or three gunflints, and turnscrew, all secured by tow.

I prefer to carry as little as possible yet still have enough ammunition and the capability to service and clean the piece in the field.

Dave Markowitz · Aug 14, 2024

I started shooting woods walks a few years ago and this is what I've settled on:

The bag is a October Country "Longhunter" double bag.

In the front pocket I dump enough balls for the match plus a couple extra.

Also in the front pocket is my powder measure and a tin with pre-lubed patches.

I keep a few tools in the back pocket: T-handle that can screw onto my ramrod (which has threaded tips on both ends); a small leather bag containing a cleaning jag, ball screw, patch worm, and plastic bag with a few pre-wet cleaning patches; in the small pocket sewn into the back wall of the bag is a turnscrew and a nipple primer.

A Traditions brand nipple pick is hung from a piece of string tied through a hole I punched in the side of the bag.

I use a Zouave AKA Peace flask to carry powder. (I don't load directly from the flask.)

I use a Polish Capper hung around my neck for my caps.

This allows me to load and shoot from the pouch easily during a match without too much rummaging around. I also use the bag for deer hunting but for that my reloads are patched balls in a ball block and a matching number of pre-measured powder charges in plastic centrifuge tubes.

Hermit Tim · Aug 14, 2024

I really like plain and simple. When I make myself a new bag it must have one inside pocket stitched to the back inside panel. A place on one side of the strap for a homemade ball starter, and a sheath made on the other side of the strap holding a small patch/squirrel knife. You never know when a squirrel might ask to borrow a knife... I've never made one with adjustable strap but, I do see the benefit, so am considering making one. Just a simple guy that likes simple stuff I guess.

Rató:rats · Aug 14, 2024

Any pics of original bags with a buckle? I’ve not seen one. Probably 99% of the 18th and 19th century bags I’ve seen are of First Nations manufacture and are non adjustable.

PathfinderNC · Aug 15, 2024

Artificer said:
2) Pouch Flap HAS to have a Button Closure. I prefer a period correct metal Button.

Gus

None of mine do and don’t need one.

French Colonial · Aug 15, 2024

I started putting adjustable straps on bags years ago when I found I needed it to accommodate the additional bulk of winter clothing after designing the strap for summer clothing. I quit hunting some years back so I suppose I do not really need the adjustment anymore.

Some type of closure is nice on a bag you use camping etc. you can take the bag off and toss it in a corner or on your pallet and not worry about it spilling all your stuff. If you just use it for woods walks and such it's not needed.

hanshi · Aug 15, 2024

I've only made two and tried to find as much information as I could before I made them. I ended up making them fairly small and other than an extra pocket on the largest one they both were just plain open bags. I saved my "custom" touches for the outside only. The one with the fringe is partly deer hide and partly canvas.

Fisherking · Aug 18, 2024

Aldarith said:
Hail friends,

Black powder newbie here, designing a possibles bag which I will be putting together with my Uncle.

I'd like to ask what 'features' you look for in a possibles bag, whether buying or making so that I might integrate some of them in my design.

Pictured is a nice antique bag that sole a while back which I have been giving a lookover.

View attachment 91537 View attachment 91538 View attachment 91539 View attachment 91540

I wouldve bought that bag in a heartbeat.

Book it.

MUST HAVE features on a possibles bag?

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

tenngun

Cannon

Artificer

Cannon

Cruzatte

50 Cal.

Lakeman

40 Cal

Attachments

longcruise

70 Cal.

Aldarith

36 Cl.

tenngun

Cannon

Artificer

Cannon

Tenring

45 Cal.

Smokey Plainsman

16"/50 Caliber

Dave Markowitz

50 Cal.

Hermit Tim

62 Cal.

Rató:rats

45 Cal.

PathfinderNC

Artist

French Colonial

62 Cal.

hanshi

Cannon

Fisherking

40 Cal

Similar threads

Latest posts

MUST HAVE features on a possibles bag?

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

Cannon

Cannon

50 Cal.

40 Cal

Attachments

70 Cal.

36 Cl.

Cannon

Cannon

45 Cal.

16"/50 Caliber

50 Cal.

62 Cal.

45 Cal.

Artist

62 Cal.

Cannon

40 Cal

Similar threads

Join the conversation!

Join today and get all the highlights of this community direct to your inbox. It's FREE!