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TOW English Sea Service Kit Build

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Joined
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I was originally holding out for a MBS English Dragoon in .62 for my next build but at $700’ish it was a little cost prohibitive. So when I came across this TOW Sea Service kit for $199 including the lock and barrel I could not resist! I’m sure the MBS is a far nicer kit but $199 was a steal. Should have bought 2, lol. I think they are now sold out of the complete kits. The kit had all the inlets already cut and the side plate and lock holes were already drilled, which proved to be a challenge to align everything as well as cover up the inlets, so no gaps and hit the existing holes. I ended up making a larger C-clamp drill jig for the lock and barrel tang bolts and it worked perfectly. My smaller C-clamp drill jig for the barrel, trigger guard and ramrod pipe pins made the job simple. Otherwise the kit went together fairly straightforward, just ALOT of wood removal to get her skinny. I used serval modified razor blades with different radius to remove the wood and were very effective (and free). The butt cap (my first) was a bit challenging but turned out well. My Dremel, which I normally don’t like to use, with a carbide cutting bit proved invaluable (just go SLOW!) I still need to remove some heavier file marks from it. Anyway her she is several weeks later with just the Fiebings med brown leather dye applied (like the very dark color) and I’m trying to decide on what finish to apply. I’m thinking BLO and/or TruOil. Any recommendations?

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Because the inlets were initially cut and the lock, barrel tang and lock plate holes were drilled, ALOT of time was spent measuring, aligning and marking for the optimal layout.
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Here you can see the transfer mark just above the pre drilled hole in the lock, the drill jig proved invaluable drilling these holes.

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I was originally holding out for a MBS English Dragoon in .62 for my next build but at $700’ish it was a little cost prohibitive. So when I came across this TOW Sea Service kit for $199 including the lock and barrel I could not resist! I’m sure the MBS is a far nicer kit but $199 was a steal. Should have bought 2, lol. I think they are now sold out of the complete kits. The kit had all the inlets already cut and the side plate and lock holes were already drilled, which proved to be a challenge to align everything as well as cover up the inlets, so no gaps and hit the existing holes. I ended up making a larger C-clamp drill jig for the lock and barrel tang bolts and it worked perfectly. My smaller C-clamp drill jig for the barrel, trigger guard and ramrod pipe pins made the job simple. Otherwise the kit went together fairly straightforward, just ALOT of wood removal to get her skinny. I used serval modified razor blades with different radius to remove the wood and were very effective (and free). The butt cap (my first) was a bit challenging but turned out well. My Dremel, which I normally don’t like to use, with a carbide cutting bit proved invaluable (just go SLOW!) I still need to remove some heavier file marks from it. Anyway her she is several weeks later with just the Fiebings med brown leather dye applied (like the very dark color) and I’m trying to decide on what finish to apply. I’m thinking BLO and/or TruOil. Any recommendations?

View attachment 249343
View attachment 249344
Absolutely Gorgeous! Top Notch! First Rate! I shant go on....
 
I was originally holding out for a MBS English Dragoon in .62 for my next build but at $700’ish it was a little cost prohibitive. So when I came across this TOW Sea Service kit for $199 including the lock and barrel I could not resist! I’m sure the MBS is a far nicer kit but $199 was a steal. Should have bought 2, lol. I think they are now sold out of the complete kits. The kit had all the inlets already cut and the side plate and lock holes were already drilled, which proved to be a challenge to align everything as well as cover up the inlets, so no gaps and hit the existing holes. I ended up making a larger C-clamp drill jig for the lock and barrel tang bolts and it worked perfectly. My smaller C-clamp drill jig for the barrel, trigger guard and ramrod pipe pins made the job simple. Otherwise the kit went together fairly straightforward, just ALOT of wood removal to get her skinny. I used serval modified razor blades with different radius to remove the wood and were very effective (and free). The butt cap (my first) was a bit challenging but turned out well. My Dremel, which I normally don’t like to use, with a carbide cutting bit proved invaluable (just go SLOW!) I still need to remove some heavier file marks from it. Anyway her she is several weeks later with just the Fiebings med brown leather dye applied (like the very dark color) and I’m trying to decide on what finish to apply. I’m thinking BLO and/or TruOil. Any recommendations?

View attachment 249343
View attachment 249344
I bought one. Then decided I had too many builds to complete already. I sold it on E-Bay for $500.00. Semper Fi.
 
Looks nicely done. The ad mentions that the lock needs tuned. What, if anything, did you have to do to the lock? Does the lock spark and function well?
Basic polish and stone the tumbler, sear, surfaces lightly. etc. Also the main spring was ridiculously overpowered, so I reduced the main and frizzen spring. I believe the main is now 12-15lbs and the frizzen is 4-5lbs.

So the downside is it doesn’t spark well at all. The frizzen is extremely hard. So much that the flint barely scratched it. So I put it in the oven at 375F for an hour but still hardly sparking at all. Ground the frizzen surface lightly and still not much spark. Not even from the grinding wheel. So I’ll either get another frizzen or rivet or braze a piece of high carbon 1095 on the face. Otherwise the lock mechanically functions great now. There’s no slop in the trigger, uncocked or cocked. It has a slight preload and the trigger breaks clean around 4-5lbs.
 
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