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Ok I found that didnt connect the two at first but now I do. I ordered some of those sights and received them from Track. The rear sight will require quite a bit of filing. Something I will need to have someone else do if I make the change. I dont have the files and skills to do this myself. At least not that much fitting.
The front sight has an oversize dovetail base and requires thinning. The front sight has enough height to dress it down.
 

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When I sight in a new set of sights on a muzzleloader, I have found over the years that Sam Fadala's recommendation of zeroing it in at 13 yards to be very useful. I shoot at small black dot or square from a magic marker and hold dead on, then adjust until all holes are in the tiny target.

If all goes well, you have a ragged hole with the windage and elevation perfect. Move to 25 and they will all be inside a standard small NMLRA bullseye. If you have tall sights the group might be slightly higher but the windage is usually dead on...............If I remember correctly Mark Baker uses this same principle................Bob
 
When I sight in a new set of sights on a muzzleloader, I have found over the years that Sam Fadala's recommendation of zeroing it in at 13 yards to be very useful. I shoot at small black dot or square from a magic marker and hold dead on, then adjust until all holes are in the tiny target.

If all goes well, you have a ragged hole with the windage and elevation perfect. Move to 25 and they will all be inside a standard small NMLRA bullseye. If you have tall sights the group might be slightly higher but the windage is usually dead on...............If I remember correctly Mark Baker uses this same principle................Bob
That used to be common knowledge, when open or iron sights were used much more widely than they are today.

Kibler runs one heck of a business doesn’t he?
 
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