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What Muzzleloading Stuff Did You Do Today?

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Finally got the 48" barrel bedded in the new build ... SHEEW !! Those longer barrels are a pain ! but got er down ! :) Breech inlet next ....
 

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After sitting in the shop for over a year I decided to get back to work on the walnut .36 SMR. I had already cleaned up and fitted the furniture, sized the pins, slotted the barrel lugs, and fitted the ram rod. But nothing to the wood, barrel finish, or lock. So I’m starting on the lock. Now there’s no better out of the box lock than a Kibler that I know of. They can certainly be used reliably as received, but their performance can be noticeably improved with proper polishing of the back plate, tumbler bents, and bridle. As for the exterior metal it’s personal preference, but I hate casting lines and marks. I enjoy seeing just how polished I can get the metal, though to high a polish isn’t conducive to some metal treatments. I’m in no hurry, only have the top jaw polished up at this time.
Now THAT is doing it right. No, way better than right.
 
Had a gunsmith friend put a new crown on a TC 45 that was destroying patches. It tore the first 2 out of 4 patches but did not destroy the last 2. Gonna do a little work tomorrow on the new crown. It shot great with the 4 shot group and the new crown shows promise.
 
Hey would you mind showing us what tools and devices you use for polishing.
Sure thing. I still had everything sitting out on the workbench so I took a picture. For exterior metal I start with assorted small flat files and shaped needle files, then sandpaper 320 to 600. Then use wool polishing tips and red rouge to polish out. For the inside I only use very fine stones and buff with the rouge. If there is a major burr on the plate back I’ll use a slightly coarser stone to blend it out first. You can’t hurt much on the outside, but the inside is a different story. You never remove metal, unless there is a production burr or casting flash, which you will not find on a Kibler lock. You only want to polish what’s there. Anything that moves and touches, even things like the base side of the sear spring should be polished. If you only polish one or two things you won’t notice much difference, but when it’s all polished the friction reduction adds up and makes a difference. I’ll also show a before and after on the tumbler.
 

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Sure thing. I still had everything sitting out on the workbench so I took a picture. For exterior metal I start with assorted small flat files and shaped needle files, then sandpaper 320 to 600. Then use wool polishing tips and red rouge to polish out. For the inside I only use very fine stones and buff with the rouge. If there is a major burr on the plate back I’ll use a slightly coarser stone to blend it out first. You can’t hurt much on the outside, but the inside is a different story. You never remove metal, unless there is a production burr or casting flash, which you will not find on a Kibler lock. You only want to polish what’s there. Anything that moves and touches, even things like the base side of the sear spring should be polished. If you only polish one or two things you won’t notice much difference, but when it’s all polished the friction reduction adds up and makes a difference. I’ll also show a before and after on the tumbler.
Very nicely done. Must be painstaking, but worth it.
 
Started going through all my rondevous stuff that I collected in over 10 years of rondys. My wife and I averaged 40 days per year living under canvas. Some stuff I will never part with, but I have so much in the form of hardly worn footwear and clothes. Due to health reasons, we had to close the chapter on rondevous.
 
Went to St. Charles, MO to the Hawken Classic. Lots of original Hawken rifles and other examples of Missouri made rifles. Some venders, activities and reenacters camp. All and all a good dry, ( for a change) day.
I was one of the reenactors at the Hawk and Knife station.

The display of Missouri rifles is worth the trip. The Museum is free to people attending the Hawken Classic.
 
Made it to the range for the first time this year. Shot my Hawken and Zouave. A lot of the younger guys had never seen a Hawken being shot or the sound of it. They were surprised. Bought 900 musket caps this week, 800 RWS and 100 CCI just to see if they are any good.
 
Been messing with my powder horn. Decided to age it further with fiebings dark brown leather dye, not sure what to seal it with when I’m done, don’t want it to bleed dye if it rains… I’ll try to post pictures when I’m done with it.
I have aged some things with tea staining. Seems to give stuff a nice look.
 
Started going through all my rondevous stuff that I collected in over 10 years of rondys. My wife and I averaged 40 days per year living under canvas. Some stuff I will never part with, but I have so much in the form of hardly worn footwear and clothes. Due to health reasons, we had to close the chapter on rondevous.
It can be hard closing chapters! Hope your health picks up!!
 
I was one of the reenactors at the Hawk and Knife station.

The display of Missouri rifles is worth the trip. The Museum is free to people attending the Hawken Classic.
I drove up from Tulsa to the Hawken Classic and met Mr. Grenadier in person and had a great discussion about Hawken rifles and other subjects. It’s a great event and I appreciate the effort that it takes to host such an event.
 
On Thursday I cast a run of .36 caliber conicals, and invented what may just be the best projectile ever! I’m going to talk to Lee about making the moulds, and I promise to sell them to you guys at cost. BEHOLD! The fin makes it far more aerodynamic for greater accuracy, and doubles as a barb for increased efficiency and a better blood trail!
Jay
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