Anyone ever seen or used this Patch Lube?

[email protected] said:

Is Spit Patch an actual product or just slang for whatever?

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I have a product called ''spit ball'' I picked it up in the 80's haven't used it since the 80's and I have no memory of how well it works,it is about the consistency of bore butter.

Looks like a saponified blend of beeswax with (possibly) olive or castor oil. The color is wrong for neatsfoot oil. I played around with some lye soap/beeswax blends but it was more trouble than it was worth. Never thought about using lye soap as a saponification agent, but can't see any reason why the "right" soap wouldn't work. Figuring out the "right" soap could be a problem (recipes and results tend to vary a bit).

You could probably get similar results with some variation of this recipe:
-2 ounces beeswax
-1.5 ounces olive oil (or your preferred vegetable oil--castor oil showed promise, but don't breathe the fumes when heating it!). If you want to try it with mineral oil, try "Mineral Oil USP" from the local pharmacy: it will give you a consistent product while you are experimenting.
-1 ounce Murphy's Oil Soap (the liquid soap)

Melt the beeswax in a double boiler. When liquefied, stir in your oil (and keep stirring til it is again a liquid; when you add the oil some of the wax will clump, and for this to work you want it well-blended and at an even temp). Slowly stir in the Murphy's, and keep stirring until it is well-blended and (again) completely liquid. It is going to foam due to the water in the Murphy's; just keep stirring the foam back in. Pour into your container while still liquid, let it cool til the next day.

This recipe may be too runny for your conditions (I was trying for a cold-weather match lube). To stiffen it up, you can reduce the quantity of oil added: 1 ounce of oil should give a relatively "stiff" blend (worked ok in summertime, but a total fail in hunting season).

Eventually, I realized for my purposes a straight oil worked better.

Duk said:

I have a product called ''spit ball'' I picked it up in the 80's haven't used it since the 80's and I have no memory of how well it works,it is about the consistency of bore butter.

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Something like this?

Spit patch was beeswax based. I have a horn that was brand new, full of it.

Looks a lot like Stumpy's Moose Snot, bees wax, caster oil & murphy's oil soap

I have had good luck with T/C #13 for years. Cuts fouling easily.

LongWalker said:

saponified

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saponified???? This is a family forum. Can you say that here?

Even though I had to look it up, a scientific term used when making soap. I guess it's ok to use.

When I was young and single I knew this gal that would give me some stuff she called Hawk Tuah lube. It was kind of like a spit patch with a little extra. It was some good stuff. I recommend getting some if ever you get the chance.

it was made by ed efferd and was mostly beeswax peanut oil and ivory soap bars. i shot it for years because i shot at eds range.nice guy who would talk you to death

Rifleman1776 said:

I would use jojoba oil

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That is what I use with bees wax, a little pricey but makes good lube. It is equivalent to Sperm whale oil.

Hatchet Jack said:

When I was young and single I knew this gal that would give me some stuff she called Hawk Tuah lube. It was kind of like a spit patch with a little extra. It was some good stuff. I recommend getting some if ever you get the chance.

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Was she raised on cornbread?

smo said:

Was she raised on cornbread?

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Not sure where she was raised, but she sure could make things rise.

Captndan said:

Butch wax if you can find it.

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but you must pry the butch wax from a lesbians cold dead hands

All fats have a saponification number, most have been determined by science people. Beeswax also has a saponification number, specific to sodium hydroxide. What this means is you can calculate how to make sodium stearate with no leftover lye using a certain amount of beeswax and certain amount of lye. This is why proper lye soap will not eat your skin off. Generally, soap makers err on the side of caution and add a little more fat than necessary to ensure all the lye is reacted.

I have made a variety of soap lubes using salts of sodium, lithium, potassium, aluminum, and calcium. The calcium soaps make a very water-resistant grease. Sodium soap makes a very water-absorbent grease, so much so that residue cleans up with plain, cool water, no cleaners required.

I suspect that the product in question here is a beeswax lye soap plasticized with additional oil. I made a very good patch lube with lye, beeswax, and avocado oil, water cleanup and no rust.

IanH said:

All fats have a saponification number, most have been determined by science people. Beeswax also has a saponification number, specific to sodium hydroxide. What this means is you can calculate how to make sodium stearate with no leftover lye using a certain amount of beeswax and certain amount of lye. This is why proper lye soap will not eat your skin off. Generally, soap makers err on the side of caution and add a little more fat than necessary to ensure all the lye is reacted.

I have made a variety of soap lubes using salts of sodium, lithium, potassium, aluminum, and calcium. The calcium soaps make a very water-resistant grease. Sodium soap makes a very water-absorbent grease, so much so that residue cleans up with plain, cool water, no cleaners required.

I suspect that the product in question here is a beeswax lye soap plasticized with additional oil. I made a very good patch lube with lye, beeswax, and avocado oil, water cleanup and no rust.

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Do you have a recipe for that last lube you mentioned with lye, beeswax, and avocado oil?