bczrx
32 Cal
Hello,
New to me original Remington 1858. Serial number puts it at November 1864 production, so third generation?
I want to remove the nipples and could use some tips, but have listed some of the ones I've already found.
Please add to the list, or add the name of a gunsmith who YOU would want to remove the nipples in this 160 year old cylinder.
It is a shooters grade- not collectors.
However, I would like to remove the nipples and replace them with modern ones- as I want something I can shoot [probably nothing more than 25gr of powder with a ball] rather than a wall hanger.
I have no idea if the nipples have ever been removed before. There is no obvious signs of rust corroding the nipple and it's hole on the rear of the cylinder.
What concerns me is that most of this is for nipples in cylinders under 60 years old- not 160.
For example, I don't think I want to try the heat/cold techniques on this original Remington cylinder.
Is there any other major 'trick' I'm missing?
Does anyone make any fitting that has 2-3 rods go into the cylinder and is in a base that is wide enough for me to grab with a vise and not mar the cylinder?
I want to be cautious about how much force to put on the cylinder when doing any of the above.
Lastly, is there a gunsmith recommendation for these old civil war era firearms that you'd trust to remove the nipples and replace them?
Thank you in advance.
New to me original Remington 1858. Serial number puts it at November 1864 production, so third generation?
I want to remove the nipples and could use some tips, but have listed some of the ones I've already found.
Please add to the list, or add the name of a gunsmith who YOU would want to remove the nipples in this 160 year old cylinder.
It is a shooters grade- not collectors.
- No bluing left, antiqued patina, mild flash rust in spots, bore has a few corrosion spots but not bad for a 160 year old black powder firearms.
- The screw that holds the cylinder pin [forgot the term- what the cylinder rotates on] from being pulled out has had the slot rounded off and is pretty much stuck in place.
- Has some hammer marks where someone probably was hammering the cylinder pin handle/tip forward and hit the frame.
- The cylinder advances and locks up properly, although I need to check the alignment properly to verify it is truly aligned. It looks like it.
- Hammer/trigger work properly, even though the trigger pull feels like it is around 9lbs or so.
However, I would like to remove the nipples and replace them with modern ones- as I want something I can shoot [probably nothing more than 25gr of powder with a ball] rather than a wall hanger.
I have no idea if the nipples have ever been removed before. There is no obvious signs of rust corroding the nipple and it's hole on the rear of the cylinder.
- I have read the trick to soak in Kroil and plan on doing so- probably for about 2 weeks [due to a trip].
- I have also order the Ted Cash ratcheting nipple wrench.
- I have been checking out the modified sockets that allow me to use a breaker bar.
- I've read about using an impact wrench to break it loose as well.
- I've also read the tips on using a drill press to apply pressure and manually twisting the arbor to loosen the nipples.
What concerns me is that most of this is for nipples in cylinders under 60 years old- not 160.
For example, I don't think I want to try the heat/cold techniques on this original Remington cylinder.
Is there any other major 'trick' I'm missing?
Does anyone make any fitting that has 2-3 rods go into the cylinder and is in a base that is wide enough for me to grab with a vise and not mar the cylinder?
I want to be cautious about how much force to put on the cylinder when doing any of the above.
Lastly, is there a gunsmith recommendation for these old civil war era firearms that you'd trust to remove the nipples and replace them?
I do a LOT of my own gunsmithing, on firearms from 1895 to 2024 production years, in all sorts of actions.
I am not too worried about doing this- However, I also admit that at this stage I'd be perfectly happy having a professional do this so that I don't damage anything.
Thank you in advance.
