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Tannic Acid

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TarponStalker

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Have any of y'all used tannic acid powder when staining your gun stock? I never have but I bought a pack of it from Kiblers when I bought my Woodsrunner kit.
I've watched a few videos on using it but I really don't want to ruin my new stock.
My last rifle I used two coats of aquafortis then blushed with a heat gun. It came out like I wanted it with a dark finish.
My other rifles I used either wood stain or Fiebings leather dye.
I really like a dark reddish color so I don't want to ruin that.
Thank you for any advice
 
Howdy, as Penske said the tannic just darkens the end grain. The color of the wood will remain the same.

This rifle was finished with one coat of tannic acid followed by two coats iron nitrate. No other pigments used, that lovely red/orange color will come through. Don't freak out when the stock turns a nasty black/green before you rub the surface later back with oil.
1000008668.jpg
 
Thanks for your help. I should've been more clear. I know it's not a stain but its purpose is to bring out the grain.
I think my concern is from one of Jim Kiblers videos. If I'm not mistaken he said tannic acid can possibly remove some of the reddish tint from the aquafortis stain. I do love the slight red color.
I'll go watch the video again.
Thanks again
 
RobertIN said:
Howdy, as Penske said the tannic just darkens the end grain. The color of the wood will remain the same.

This rifle was finished with one coat of tannic acid followed by two coats iron nitrate. No other pigments used, that lovely red/orange color will come through. Don't freak out when the stock turns a nasty black/green before you rub the surface later back with oil.View attachment 343462
Click to expand...
Absolutely beautiful
 
TarponStalker said:
Thanks for your help. I should've been more clear. I know it's not a stain but its purpose is to bring out the grain.
I think my concern is from one of Jim Kiblers videos. If I'm not mistaken he said tannic acid can possibly remove some of the reddish tint from the aquafortis stain. I do love the slight red color.
I'll go watch the video again.
Thanks again
Click to expand...
It can, you can experiment with some transtint or aniline dye in your barrel channel to see what it'll look like before you commit to the entire stock. I think Jim recommends aniline but it's been a while since I watched the videos.

I did it to test what one coat iron nitrate + tannic, two coats iron nitrate+ tannic, and one other combination I don't recall. Sand where the bottom flat is in the channel to 220 grit to smooth it out and do some experimenting, nobody but you will know it's under there :p put a thick coat of wax on top before assembly if you're concerned about the acid touching your barrel. I do it anyway just for water protection God forbid I get caught in heavy rain.
 
By using alternate coats of iron nitrate and tannic acid, your stock may appear as black as coal. Or like mine, very dark and green until heated. Then it was still sort of ugly and drab until it saw the first finish. Using your preference of Scotch Brite pads, steel or brass wool, or little pieces of 400 grit sandpaper dipped in finish. You rub it back until you get the desired look. The end grain will hang onto the black longer. Enhancing the curl.

IMG_3152.JPEG


IMG_3156.JPEG


IMG_3191.JPEG
IMG_3149.JPEG
 
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On the subject of treating/ staining a curly maple stock, has anyone tried the Iron / steel soaked in Vinegar for a few months recipe ?
I have a friend in the US who recommends it so I've been trying to produce the liquid for 3 months now, but I'm wary of using it without others recomnendations and experience. Photos of the "syrup" as it brews for now.
 

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Bucolic Buffalo said:
By using alternate coats of iron nitrate and tannic acid, your stock may appear as black as coal. Or like mine, very dark and green until heated. Then it was still sort of ugly and drab until it saw the first finish. Using your preference of Scotch Brite pads, steel or brass wool, or little pieces of 400 grit sandpaper dipped in finish. You rub it back until you get the desired look. The end grain will hang onto the black longer. Enhancing the curl.

View attachment 343733

View attachment 343734

View attachment 343735View attachment 343730
Click to expand...
That's very pretty. I've been experimenting with different things today to see what works best for me.
 
Bucolic Buffalo said:
By using alternate coats of iron nitrate and tannic acid, your stock may appear as black as coal. Or like mine, very dark and green until heated. Then it was still sort of ugly and drab until it saw the first finish. Using your preference of Scotch Brite pads, steel or brass wool, or little pieces of 400 grit sandpaper dipped in finish. You rub it back until you get the desired look. The end grain will hang onto the black longer. Enhancing the curl.

View attachment 343733

View attachment 343734

View attachment 343735View attachment 343730
Click to expand...
Would you get the same results or similar by not alternating coats of nitrate and tannic ?
Are the results similar if just coating twice with nitrate - then blush - then tannic ?
I'm trying to understand the process.

And I wonder .. can a stock done with iron nitrate and 2 coats of tried & true - - - be overstrained with tannic ?
 
GriscomRun said:
Would you get the same results or similar by not alternating coats of nitrate and tannic ?
Are the results similar if just coating twice with nitrate - then blush - then tannic ?
I'm trying to understand the process.

And I wonder .. can a stock done with iron nitrate and 2 coats of tried & true - - - be overstrained with tannic ?
Click to expand...

The only way to know, is to test it. And each piece of wood may react a bit differently.

Once a finish has been applied, it could be attempted knowing that a complete sanding and do over might be necessary.
 
Coinneach said:
...so I've been trying to produce the liquid for 3 months now..
Click to expand...
Ancient recipe that goes back at least 1,500 years. Called "atramentum" or "shoe black" in the medieval period, more recently known as vinagroon. You can also use ground-up iron sulfate mineral in place of iron, works better and faster than dissolving iron.

Acetic acid + iron = iron acetate + hydrogen gas

Used primarily to turn leather black through the interaction of iron acetate and tannins. When dyeing leather, I add ground-up oak galls for more tannin. I've never used vinagroon on wood.

It should only take a couple of weeks to make vinagroon, even if you used a weak household 5% vinegar. I've made the stuff many times, and I've never had any brew look like THAT!!!
 

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