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Additional tips on removing stuck nipple

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A quarter inch drive should be pretty easy. Any quarter inch socket of whatever size could work - though you'll probably have to grind it to fit. To drive it, use an appropriate allen wrench. For instance, if you've got a quarter inch socket in 3/8ths, turn it upside down on the nipple, then drive it with a 3/8 allen. There are also quarter inch square drive adapters that are 1/4" square on both ends. You could drive that with your 1/4" breaker bar.

I don't know what the difference is between ATF and PSF (power steering fluid) but PSF works better than ATF with acetone.
 
I would try some Kroil. Pour some down the barrel until it starts coming out the nipple. Then plug the nipple with a round toothpick and add a little more Kroil to the barrel and let it soak overnight. Then try to remove. If that doesn't work, remove the barrel from the stock and heat it with a heat gun or propane torch.
 
The heat-cool-heat-cool cycle should do it. And the ATF/acetone mix has been proven to be 2 times better tha Kroil and 2.5 times better than Liquid Wrench.

FWIW the best penetrating oil one can use is a DIY homemade mix of 50% acetone and 50% automatic transmission fluid (ATF).

Recently “Machinist Workshop Magazine” did a test on penetrating oils. Using nuts and bolts that they ”˜scientifically rusted’ to a uniform degree by soaking in salt water, they then tested the break-out torque required to loosen the nuts. They treated the nuts with a variety of penetrants and measured the torque required to loosen them.

This is what they came up with:
  • Nothing: 516 lbs
  • WD-40: 238 lbs
  • PB Blaster: 214 lbs
  • Liquid Wrench: 127 lbs
  • Kano Kroil: 106 lbs
  • (ATF)/Acetone mix (50/50 mix): 50 lbs
 
I used to repair antique engines. Old rusty bolts, nuts and screws. I'd use some sort of penetrating oil. Never seen one better than the other. I'd take a wrench, socket or screwdriver without the handle. Id then give it a few blows with a hammer. Never failed. I tried that method on rusty guns, especially nipples. Only have had a couple that I had to leave alone. And as mentioned above, heat. Did that as an oilfield mechanic.
On the nipple, make sure the tool is resting on the base and not the cone.
Good luck with it.
 
Thanks to everyone for the tips! A couple heat cycles and some more torque got it off. A bit rusty, but nothing that cant be cleaned up.

A follow-up question for anyone that sees this:

I picked up a Traditions anti-seize grease stick from Bass Pro on my way home today. It says it’s for breech plugs, but I assume it would work on nipple threads equally as well correct? Does anyone have good/bad experience with that product?

Thanks
 
I don’t have experience with the traditions anti seize, but I’m sure it works. I use regular automotive anti seize and it works well.
 
I use permatex anti-seize because I have it, not because I know it is better. If Traditions sells a product for breech plugs, I expect it to work well for nipples.

I haven't tried it but would not hesitate to do so.
 
hawkenhunter50 said:
Could also try a regular old wrench, use the open end of a box end wrench, might get more leverage than the T style wrench provides.
Click to expand...
Thank goodness you said that
I have found that it is more effective to break nipples loose with a standard wrench and then use the nipple wrench. Also remember lefty loose
 
hawkenhunter50 said:
Also the Ted Cash nipple wrenchs in my opinion are way better than the T styles.
Click to expand...
Yes, the Ted Cash nipple wrenches made from 1/4” impact sockets driven by a ratcheting handle are my go to. I get them different places but I feel sure the Log Cabin Shop or the Possibles Shop have them.
Sometimes I have to lie across the rifle while PRESSING down to get a good grip but it usually just turns out easily. PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench never hurts as a pretreatment.
 

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