Yes it is selectively deceiving. But that’s the marketing game I guess.
Anyhow, the Nowill knife better be straight!!!
Anyhow, the Nowill knife better be straight!!!
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Green River knives
- Thread starter Omahkapi'si
- Start date
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I'm "well pleased" with my Nowll's butcher's knife.
Still sourcing a goof sheath for it and want to refinish the handle and force patina the blade to endarken it.
Still sourcing a goof sheath for it and want to refinish the handle and force patina the blade to endarken it.
Cut a few lemons, tomatoes, and potatoes, and onions with it, and don't clean it right away. it will darken up real quick. Its not a stainless blade, so it will darken.
Dave
Dave
Yup that’ll do it.
Like this.
Thats it.
Dave
Dave
- Joined
- Aug 25, 2003
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Hi Stophel. Hope you are well. Mark the apex of the curve in the blade with a marker, pencil, or best guess. polish the apex area to bright metal maybe an inch and a half or so forward and aft of the apex. Put tang, or blade if need be, in vice and flex the blade enough to become straight to eye. Adjust in vice if needed. Heat the polished area of the spine with propane torch and when spine is hot, flex blade to a bit over flexed from dead straight. Do not let any heat colors run down to the edge or even much beyond half way in doing this. While still holding the blade over flexed and spine heated to blue or even neutral, pour water over it to completely cool. Repeat if necessary. The water will lock it in position, or close to, but it may take a few tries to get it where you want or will accept. Hammering on a heat treated blade will make that area brittle. It is breaking the grains and in doing so work hardening the steel which weakens it.
- Joined
- Aug 25, 2003
- Messages
- 6,502
- Reaction score
- 1,438
Hi Stophel. Hope you are well. Mark the apex of the curve in the blade with a marker, pencil, or best guess. polish the apex area to bright metal maybe an inch and a half or so forward and aft of the apex. Put tang, or blade if need be, in vice and flex the blade enough to become straight to eye. Adjust if needed. Heat the polished area of the spine with propane torch with blade a bit over flexed from dead straight. Do not let any heat colors run down to the edge or even much beyond half way. While still holding the blade over flexed and spine heated to blue or even neutral, pour water over it to cool. Repeat if necessary. The water will lock it in position, or close to, but it may take a few tries to get it where you want or will accept. Hammering on a heat treated blade will make that area brittle. It is breaking the grains in doing so work hardening the steel.
Last edited:
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