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3F in a .54?

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SeaBee133

40 Cal
Joined
Aug 18, 2024
Messages
149
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167
Location
Rosemark TN
Just gave my .54 GPR a “test” firing. It works.
I have 2F subs, 3F Triple 7 and 3F Swiss. The test was with Swiss and a few patches, no ball in case it didn’t fire.
I will -NOT- be using the set trigger. I’m fine with the already light front trigger as is. It is like shooting an old S&W N frame .44, couple pound trigger, mere ounces if used single action or set trigger.
I have way more 2F than I do 3F. In order to stretch out my supply, considering a 2F main with a 3F “kicker”. My friend that left it to me would use anywhere from 15-35gr of loose powder, under 2 .50/50 Pyrodrek or T7 pellets. Worked okay, very accurate, tolerable recoil, easy enough cleaning, but the stench would gag a maggot. Not real fond of pellets in a side lock but…
The 3F T7 can lists .45 and .50 loads, with a 100gr max load. So 110-120gr max in a .54 “should” be okay? Is the 3F Swiss about the same in a rifle? I’ve shot both in my ROA, Swiss smells better, they shoot to the same poi in a 7.5” barrel. Loaded volume for volume, add ball, seat, wipe with bore gup.
The GPR is AZ (1990) proofed, 299XXX serial range. Fits me like it was made for my 6’2” 240# frame. My TC .50 does not, so the GPR is going to be my hunting rifle, I have a hog shoot coming up when it cools off. GPR and a restocked open iron sighted unmentionable of the Simonov persuasion. Just looking for a good starting load for straight 3F, or duplexed with a 2F main charge. Thanks y’all.
 
I use 3f Goex in my .54 but I only use 70 grains.

Pellets are made for modern inlines and not ideal for your GPR.
I know, but hate to waste them. They worked fine for “killing Yankees” (PBR cans) with a 5gr kicker.
My only succesful BP hunting has been with a Ruger Old Army .45, and a couple original BPCRs. Trapdoor Springfield with Spanish American War era surplus .45/70, and an 1876 Winchester with equally old .45/60 that belonged to my greatgrandfather. He had the ‘76 because it was the year he was born, the ‘73 the year his wife was.
I literally gave away my .30 centerfire hunting guns a couple years ago. Hated shooting them.
I’ll probably start at 75gr straight 3F and see what it likes. And then go to 25gr 3F with a 50gr 2F topper. Also plan to see if it likes straight 2F real or T7.
No Pyrodrek. Can’t stand the smell. Worse than chicom milsurp.
 
I use 44 grs FFFg in my .58 Enfield with good results on breakable targets at 50 and 100 yards. This pushes a 500 gr minie.
60 grs FFg was the standard powder load during the Civil war, with devastating results.
🤔
Would definitely cut down the trips to a muzzleloader shop to buy real deal powder. Even “Great Wall of China Mart” is 15 miles away for surrogate powder, as is Dunhams. And the ML traditional stuff from either is pathetic.
 
Let's just cut to the chase here-
Yes, you can use 3f in a 54cal. Do proper load development and don't get crazy chasing power. The benefit of using 3f Swiss- less fouling and less powder needed per shot to achieve the same results as 2f. I shoot 3f Swiss in everything with no issues including 69cal
 
My .54 Isaac Haines likes 100 grains of Swiss 3F. Shoots very flat out to 100 yards and if I hold up enough front sight I can hit the gong at 200.

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Let's just cut to the chase here-
Yes, you can use 3f in a 54cal. Do proper load development and don't get crazy chasing power. The benefit of using 3f Swiss- less fouling and less powder needed per shot to achieve the same results as 2f. I shoot 3f Swiss in everything with no issues including 69cal
Not so much chasing power as knowing the safe top end. I fired a 95gr blank load out of it yesterday, just an even, steady push. I plan to work it up starting at 60 or so grains. Both Swiss and T7, .530 PRB, CCI and Remington caps on hand. All sight in to be done in my orchard, trees are 60’ on center. Easy to set up for different distances.
 
my long time friend has a great plains rifle that was the first muzzleloader he bought 30 years ago, wrong handed (left) factory built 54cal. before he had 100 rounds through it we had to replace the trigger with a davis (the only time I haven't been able to get one working) then we had to deburr the lock so the screws would not loosen up on their own he uses 40 grns 3f goex as his target load and 70 grns of 2f for hunting . the quick way to see if your wasting powder is to shoot over a white bed sheet if you get little burn marks or even unburned powder on the sheet all your doing is increasing the recoil, any thing that doesn't burn before the ball exits the barrel is waisted
 
my long time friend has a great plains rifle that was the first muzzleloader he bought 30 years ago, wrong handed (left) factory built 54cal. before he had 100 rounds through it we had to replace the trigger with a davis (the only time I haven't been able to get one working) then we had to deburr the lock so the screws would not loosen up on their own he uses 40 grns 3f goex as his target load and 70 grns of 2f for hunting . the quick way to see if your wasting powder is to shoot over a white bed sheet if you get little burn marks or even unburned powder on the sheet all your doing is increasing the recoil, any thing that doesn't burn before the ball exits the barrel is waisted
I read something similar years ago, maybe Sam Fadala article, advising to shoot over snow. Personally I judge based on accuracy, POI and a chronograph.
 
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