Too much trouble.....

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"Easier" overall is not the reason for making and using paper cartridges.

And it takes more than 30 minutes of practice to get it down. I've lost count of the paper cartridges I ruined and had to tear up to reclaim powder and ball.

So what is the perceived advantage? All I can see is back in the day it gave you consistency. Anyone that shoots a BP now is astute enough to do a reliable job of it , vs someone off the farm who you just ran through basic.

I am not saying a farm lad was dumb, nor a city guy, but firearms would have been all new to many.

Now if you want to recreate a historical aspect, I can sort of see that. The ultimate paper cartridge aspect would be an unmentionable cylinder.

I tried making my own caps and in the end, I would rather pay for the expensive caps that never being sure mine would go boom. Others had much better success, I did not. I want to shoot not mess with things.
 
So what is the perceived advantage? ....
Easier, faster loading on the range. More time and bother at home trades off for less time and both under actual shooting use. Though the total time involved probably stills favors measure & pour.

Besides, I'm not very good at just sitting and watching TV. If I've got something to do with my hands I'm happier. Better making something useful than snacking and drinking. ;)
 
The way i make mine is pretty quick and simple. I can make 100 in about two hours sitting on my butt watching TV. One of my favorite things i used to do was walk back and forth thru a woods walk and plink. They come in very handy for that.

When i used to trap i often carried a 36 navy and i liked to take some plinking shots along the way. When you have a 60lb or more pack on your back paper cartridges make things easier.
 
I watched Blackies' process about putting a drop of clue atop the ball and then sitting the sleeve stick atop the ball. That's fairly easy but then when I slide the sleeve and ball off the stick the paper wants to collapse. I'm wondering how spray starch might stiffen up the paper a tat before sliding it off the mandrel?? I'm going to try an open ended mandrel and close the sleeve over the end, attach the ball and then drop the soy lube and powder down the hollow mandrel!
 
I watched Blackies' process about putting a drop of clue atop the ball and then sitting the sleeve stick atop the ball. ....,
Do it the other way around and use Super Glue. I tried the "glue the ball on top" method and I thought it worked really well:
https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/...did-you-do-today.134755/page-762#post-2662956

You close the powder cylinder off with the flaps at the top before you glue the ball.

You don't need spray starch to stiffen your powder cylinder, you just need heavier paper. I found that curling paper works the best. It's heavier than cigarette paper, makes a sturdy powder cylinder, but not so heavy that the percussion cap flame doesn't penetrate.
 
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Do it the other way around and use Super Glue. I tried the "glue the ball on top" method and I thought it worked really well:
https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/...did-you-do-today.134755/page-762#post-2662956

You close the powder cylinder off with the flaps at the top before you glue the ball.

You don't need spray starch to stiffen your powder cylinder, you just need heavier paper. I found that curling paper works the best. It's heavier than cigarette paper, makes a sturdy powder cylinder, but not so heavy that the percussion cap flame doesn't penetrate.
Where do you purchase the 'curling paper' and do you cut it akin to the size of cigarette paper or does it come in sheet sizers? Thanks!
 
When my kit arrived I spent some time making dummy cartridges with semolina. Now I pretty much make them all consistant, and its quite relaxing watching a good film while making up a bunch of cartridges. When out on the range its far easier just slipping these into the chamber rather than loading with flask (two if you use semolina as a spacer in reduced loads) and ball.
 
Easier, faster loading on the range. More time and bother at home trades off for less time and both under actual shooting use. Though the total time involved probably stills favors measure & pour.

Besides, I'm not very good at just sitting and watching TV. If I've got something to do with my hands I'm happier. Better making something useful than snacking and drinking. ;)
I used to roll tubes for reenactment loads while watching tv. Then I stopped watching tv. 🤣
 
Where do you purchase the 'curling paper' and do you cut it akin to the size of cigarette paper or does it come in sheet sizers? Thanks!
Beauty shop. Cut it per your template. If I remember, for a .44 cal I got two per paper. The brand I found worked best is "TrueWave". Also called "end papers". The gals at the shop will know what you're looking for. 😄

Also to add: don't use the "school glue" glue sticks; they're yucky. Look for the "all purpose" glue sticks. Spreads more evenly.
 
Beauty shop. Cut it per your template. If I remember, for a .44 cal I got two per paper. The brand I found worked best is "TrueWave". Also called "end papers". The gals at the shop will know what you're looking for. 😄

Also to add: don't use the "school glue" glue sticks; they're yucky. Look for the "all purpose" glue sticks. Spreads more evenly.
I use those also but I dip mine in a solution of potassium nitrate and water and let them dry. They burn much quicker and better and leave no paper in the cylinders after you shoot them.
 
I use those also but I dip mine in a solution of potassium nitrate and water and let them dry. They burn much quicker and better and leave no paper in the cylinders after you shoot them.
Yes, all my paper cartridge construction methods for cap 'n ball revolvers involve using nitrated paper. Thanks for filling in that blank. I should have mentioned it.
 
Thanks guys for your input. I worked on these until my back is aching but I'm learning a new skill. Gotta find out now where to find the nitrated cig paper!

IMG_4882 by Sharps Man, on Flickr

Folks I started shooting revolvers when my Dad came home in 1952 with a Colt .45. He taught me how to cast bullets and load ammo and I've been shooting various revolvers since that era. Next Dad got a 7 1/2" Ruger in .44 Mag; later on he got an S&W M29 in .44 Mag. Both of those were great shooters. I live on the north end of a lake and I took a disk blade, painted it white and I nailed it onto a cypress tree which was 195 yards distance. I'd sit with my back to a big oak tree and EVERY SHOT whang that plate with a 240 gr. Keith bullet. BUT....the biggest surprise in my life was what this revolver above will do. Shooting 40 grains of FFF KIK or GOEX blackpowder at 40 yards it will stack them into a group the size of the palm of my hand. Came from Pietta with a decent trigger pull. I had to file the front sight down a tat but at 40 yards it's deadly shooting a swaged RB from Hornady. I am pleased to no end with Pietta!
 
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You can’t buy nitrated cigarette papers, buts is easy enough to make with potassium nitrate and water. Just dip the paper in and hang it to dry. I’ve used coffee filters and now I use papers used for perming your hair. Not your hair specifically but hair in general!
 

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