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Testing WD-40 against water patches. Which is cleaner?

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Interesting...I guess. But the point of the correspondent's question escaped me. What did he hope to find?
 
Interesting...I guess. But the point of the correspondent's question escaped me. What did he hope to find?
Not sure..
I assume he was wondering if lubricants would be cleaner than water on patches.
Other than this video.....Water is all I use to wet patches & clean with.
I don't use any commercial products anymore.
 
I seem to remember reading here that using any petroleum based products with BP would turn fouling to tar and ruin a gun. Didn't seem to have a negative effect on your bore and it made clean up much easier.
 
No difference. Water is cheap.

I use WD-40 as a Rust Preventative. Midway did a study a while back. They coated a bunch of metal plates with different substances and stored them in a humid environment. The WD-40 plate came out the cleanest.

Walt
I don’t like how it gums up over time. For my match M1 Garands I use CLP only.
 
dont know where the old wives tale came about that WD 40 turns into wax. used it 50 years never saw that. seems like talk like that belongs in a laundromat :ghostly:
 
I had a hunting buddy use wd-40 to clean his shotgun. One cold morning goose hunting, a flock came over and he pulled the trigger. Heard a faint "click" and nothing. Firing pin was so gummed up it wouldn't strike the primer hard enough to fire! I stay away from it on firearms.
 
I use WD-40 as a Rust Preventative. Midway did a study a while back. They coated a bunch of metal plates with different substances and stored them in a humid environment. The WD-40 plate came out the cleanest.

@BP Addict - Walt, as stated that's somewhat misleading, so if you don't mind me adding a clarification.

The conclusion was from a test of 56 or more preservation solvents/solutions and it was not the basic WD-40 that out-performed them all, but it was their special and expen$ive ($15 for a 6.5-ounce can) "WD-40 Specialist Corrosion Inhibitor" that was tested in long-term salt exposure sprays to be THE BEST of the best, along with a special RIG grease-based product, but the spray is easier to use, of course!

I use that WD-40 SCI on SS hardware and mechanisms on boats, as I maintain a fleet of boats used 24/7 in salt waters, and I can attest that it is THE best I've ever used for a spray or liquid product.

If I need a protectant/preservative grease, I'll use the blue-colored synthetic grease made/sold by or as OMC/Bombardier "Triple Guard" marine grease. That still protects even when compromised 30% with saltwater. In fact, I apply it to my MZL'dr barrels before pinning them in the barrel channel; it is quite thick, needs to be rubbed out to apply a thin coat, but it stays in place and it doesn't run. It's only $12 for a HUGE tub that lasts me many, many years, and I'll take care of over a dozen boats and motors in those years, plus 3 of my own. (Note this product wasn't tested in the large field test noted above.)

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Note: Like others ... I just clean with good ol' water!
 

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@BP Addict - Walt, as stated that's somewhat misleading, so if you don't mind me adding a clarification.

The conclusion was from a test of 56 or more preservation solvents/solutions and it was not the basic WD-40 that out-performed them all, but it was their special and expen$ive ($15 for a 6.5-ounce can) "WD-40 Specialist Corrosion Inhibitor" that was tested in long-term salt exposure sprays to be THE BEST of the best, along with a special RIG grease-based product, but the spray is easier to use, of course!

I use that WD-40 SCI on SS hardware and mechanisms on boats, as I maintain a fleet of boats used 24/7 in salt waters, and I can attest that it is THE best I've ever used for a spray or liquid product.

If I need a protectant/preservative grease, I'll use the blue-colored synthetic grease made/sold by or as OMC/Bombardier "Triple Guard" marine grease. That still protects even when compromised 30% with saltwater. In fact, I apply it to my MZL'dr barrels before pinning them in the barrel channel; it is quite thick, needs to be rubbed out to apply a thin coat, but it stays in place and it doesn't run. It's only $12 for a HUGE tub that lasts me many, many years, and I'll take care of over a dozen boats and motors in those years, plus 3 of my own. (Note this product wasn't tested in the large field test noted above.)

View attachment 360198

Note: Like others ... I just clean with good ol' water!
Thanks for the clarification and recommendations!

Walt
 
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