Nipple install? Need help

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

ahcollier

32 Cal
Joined
Sep 16, 2024
Messages
35
Reaction score
19
Location
Alexandria, VA USA
I removed the nipple on my Investarms .50 cal to clean inside it and now I can’t get the nipple back on… the threads just won’t catch…

Any ideas? What’s the secret? What am I doing wrong?

Thanks, Andy in VA
 
I removed the nipple on my Investarms .50 cal to clean inside it and now I can’t get the nipple back on… the threads just won’t catch…

Any ideas? What’s the secret? What am I doing wrong?

Thanks, Andy in VA
You do have the appropriately sized nipple wrench since you have removed it.
You are replacing the same nipple that you removed.
You have cleaned the threads in the nipple and the nipple seat.
You are aligning the nipple with it in the nipple wrench.
You have used some grease on the nipple.


No secret. You need to align the nipple with the nipple seat and let the threads engage as you start the threads by hand.

You may want to take the nipple to the local hardware store to try it on their thread tester.

Buy a bolt with the same threads as your nipple and see if you can get that to start.
 
This is what works for me. My nipple wrench is the type that looks like a socket and has a rod through it crimped on each end. The T handle Ted Cash nipple wrench is pretty close to what I have.
I cut the crimp off so I can remove the bar. Put the nipple in the socket and start by hand. Easier to hold the socket than the nipple and the socket extends above the barrel. I never have a problem getting it started this way and can run it all the way down, just put the bar in for the final torque.
 
This is what works for me. My nipple wrench is the type that looks like a socket and has a rod through it crimped on each end. The T handle Ted Cash nipple wrench is pretty close to what I have.
I cut the crimp off so I can remove the bar. Put the nipple in the socket and start by hand. Easier to hold the socket than the nipple and the socket extends above the barrel. I never have a problem getting it started this way and can run it all the way down, just put the bar in for the final torque.
Thank you so much. Cheers, Andy
 
You can use a nipple wrench or your thumb and finger to start the nipple. Grasp the nipple and place it in the hole then rotate it counterclockwise until you feel it drop into the lead thread of the threaded hole THEN rotate the nipple clockwise to thread it into the threaded hole. Continue this clockwise rotation until the nipple is seated then using the nipple wrench give the nipple a 1/8 to 1/4 turn more to snug the nipple up. Do not over tighten it - snug is good - over tighten equals "stripped".:thumb:
 
You can use a nipple wrench or your thumb and finger to start the nipple. Grasp the nipple and place it in the hole then rotate it counterclockwise until you feel it drop into the lead thread of the threaded hole THEN rotate the nipple clockwise to thread it into the threaded hole. Continue this clockwise rotation until the nipple is seated then using the nipple wrench give the nipple a 1/8 to 1/4 turn more to snug the nipple up. Do not over tighten it - snug is good - over tighten equals "stripped".:thumb:
Thank you. I can’t believe that something that seems so simple has been so difficult!

Thanks, Andy
 
It is very easy to get into trouble with fine threads on small screws even bigger screws for that matter. Care must be taken when starting these types of fasteners. In most cases you should start them with your fingers for the best sensitivity and feel for when the two parts engage properly.
 
It is very easy to get into trouble with fine threads on small screws even bigger screws for that matter. Care must be taken when starting these types of fasteners. In most cases you should start them with your fingers for the best sensitivity and feel for when the two parts engage properly.
Thank you for the very sound advice. Last thing I want to do is strip the threads on the barrel.
 
I have soft tubing that fits snuggly the different nipples on my firearms. With a length of tubing fastened, slightly moving the nipple left or right as I turn it seems to seat and turn in with no problem. Especially handy for me on cap and ball revolvers
That’s a great idea. Where do you get the tubing? Amazon? Home Depot? Fish b
I have soft tubing that fits snuggly the different nipples on my firearms. With a length of tubing fastened, slightly moving the nipple left or right as I turn it seems to seat and turn in with no problem. Especially handy for me on cap and ball revolvers

I have soft tubing that fits snuggly the different nipples on my firearms. With a length of tubing fastened, slightly moving the nipple left or right as I turn it seems to seat and turn in with no problem. Especially handy for me on cap and ball revolvers
That’s a great idea. Where do you get the tubing? Amazon? Home Depot? PetCo?
 
If the nipple is not removed and cleaned during your cleaning process the nipple will become an interaural part of the gun and you will not get it out without drilling it out and destroying the gun. The nipple needs to be clean to function properly and be reliable that means it needs to be clean, and it can't be totally cleaned in the gun unless you are a magician. My two cents worth.
 
I removed the nipple on my Investarms .50 cal to clean inside it and now I can’t get the nipple back on… the threads just won’t catch…

Any ideas? What’s the secret? What am I doing wrong?

Thanks, Andy in VA
Aside from firearms I have spent the better part of my life working on various office equipment; I have removed and replaced Billions, maybe even Trillion of screws and bolts.
The worst is coming behind someone else who doesn't know how, even worse are those who use ...:eek:..Power Tools!!
Removing a stripped on bolt can be from a PITA to outright Impossible!

As I was taught hundreds of years ago in shop class and reinforced by my father who built boats and worked all his life with machinery:

1) Put down the Tools, use your Fungers! Like a skilled safe cracker, FEEL the threads!

2) As mentioned earlier; begin by stealthily turning Counterclockwise until you feel the slight 'drop' indicating the two threads have engaged.

3) Begin, slowly at first, turning Clockwise and Feel for any type of resistance. Buggered threads, dirt, grit and other will cause resistance.

4) IF you feel resistance then STOP! Pull it back out and find the resistance, fix it, start from step 1.

5) No resistance? THEN use your Tool to drive it on in.

Tip: your Not working on a car, your not building an airplane - No Need To Torque It Down (unless the Manual give a spec to do so)
**in most cases you Only need Finger Tight, then just a tad more.

Tip: Use a heat resistance Lube to prevent "HELP! I Got Stuck Nipples" thread later on.
*note: a 'Stuck...anything' thread could go on for PAGES, and last for Days, Weeks, even Months!! Generally repeating the same information over and over and over (in multiple languages even!)

This may all sound complicated, it may sound like a lot of steps and a lot to remember...it's actually very simple and provided you:
1) did it correctly the last time
2) don't encounter and trouble (grit, dirt, buggered thread)
...it goes real quick and easy.
You will get better and fast each time you do it!
 
Back
Top