Cracked stock in front of lock

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JQuigley

JQuigley

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I’m throwing together a hawken and just repaired a break just in front of the lock and was wondering if anyone had ideas on how to strengthen it. I don’t want it breaking again and I don’t want to scrap this stock because it’s some beautiful curly maple. I used titebond 3 on it and it seems sound but want to cross my T’s and dot my I’s. If it weren’t a hawken with a removal barrel I’d just torque some wet rawhide around it. I’m not horrible concerned with how it looks because it’ll be best up bu the time I’m done anyway. Thanks!
 

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Wow, that's got to make you absolutely sick. You might want to look into Starbond. I don't think ordinary wood glue would be good enough for that kind of repair. Starbond is better than regular CA (aka "super") glue, but I don't know if it's appropriate for that type of repair and/or whether you can disguise it. But since that doesn't seem to be a high priority for you, maybe it would be a choice worth considering. Starbond will definitely be strong enough and also fairly easy to work with given its long set time until the catalyst is applied. I've done cracked stock repairs with Starbond and been satisfied with the results.
 
wiscoaster said:
Wow, that's got to make you absolutely sick. You might want to look into Starbond. I don't think ordinary wood glue would be good enough for that kind of repair. Starbond is better than regular CA (aka "super") glue, but I don't know if it's appropriate for that type of repair and/or whether you can disguise it. But since that doesn't seem to be a high priority for you, so maybe it would be a choice worth considering. Starbond will definitely be strong enough and also fairly easy to work with given its long set time until the catalyst is applied.
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I forgot I had wicked some in to the inside of the stock during the repair but yes it made me sick to my stomach. I just put the lock in by hand and the whole top blew off and I swore I was going to sell all my stuff and become a monk after that 🤣
 
That looks like a curly maple break. The break follows the waves in the curls. It could be that the wood shrunk, and the lock put pressure on the wood. Lot to be said for a loose inletting job or a good bevel on the sides of the metal. Titebond III and a good clamp job will hold it quite well. The break isn't structural like in the wrist.
 
EC121 said:
That looks like a curly maple break. The break follows the waves in the curls. It could be that the wood shrunk and the lock put pressure on the wood. Lot to be said for a loose inletting job or a good bevel on the sides of the metal. Titebond III and a good clamp job will hold it quite well. The break isn't structural like in the wrist.
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Yeah it was the most beautiful break I’ve ever seen as much as it hurt 🤣
 
I’d want a pin or two in it myself, just to feel good about it, but I’m not sure of the best way to go about getting them in this one. The wood glue should be enough, but i tend to overdo stuff. You have my condolences.
 
Stykbow said:
I’d want a pin or two in it myself, just to feel good about it, but I’m not sure of the best way to go about getting them in this one. The wood glue should be enough, but i tend to overdo stuff. You have my condolences.
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I just finished putting in a pin. Don’t really have the meat to fit another in or I would
 
check the inlet for a too tight fit once you get it glued or the probability of it cracking elsewhere is high. shave whisker thin amounts to create a smooth fit rather than a tight fit. seems counter intuitive but one doesn't want a hammer it in fit. I have to fight myself constantly about this. wood continues to live even after being dead and dry. nothing we can do can guarantee it won't move a bit due to weather. when i finish a barrel channel, I use a complete small bottle of super glue spread from breech to nose cap. seems to work. haven't lost one to cracks yet.
 
deerstalkert said:
check the inlet for a too tight fit once you get it glued or the probability of it cracking elsewhere is high. shave whisker thin amounts to create a smooth fit rather than a tight fit. seems counter intuitive but one doesn't want a hammer it in fit. I have to fight myself constantly about this. wood continues to live even after being dead and dry. nothing we can do can guarantee it won't move a bit due to weather. when i finish a barrel channel, I use a complete small bottle of super glue spread from breech to nose cap. seems to work. haven't lost one to cracks yet.
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Yeah I’m going to be extra careful when I put the lock back in. I’m not sure how it broke so easily this time. There must’ve been a hairline I didn’t see. Definitely a first for me
 
JQuigley said:
Yeah I’m going to be extra careful when I put the lock back in. I’m not sure how it broke so easily this time. There must’ve been a hairline I didn’t see. Definitely a first for me
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I can't think of a more heart sinking felling than discovering a crack or break in a stock. I have built stocks for unmentionables for 60 years or so and have experienced that feeling. a few times with a stock that the raw blank cost upwards of 3k. makes one walk about talking to their shoe laces!
 
deerstalkert said:
I can't think of a more heart sinking felling than discovering a crack or break in a stock. I have built stocks for unmentionables for 60 years or so and have experienced that feeling. a few times with a stock that the raw blank cost upwards of 3k. makes one walk about talking to their shoe laces!
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I couldn’t even imagine even looking at a blank of that quality with my own eyes let alone working one 😅
 
Quig........You can easily epoxie bed the barrel where the break is under the barrel. Have done this many times. Here's how. Instead of messy release agents , Wrap the length of the gunbarrel in a single thickness of plastic shopping bag , cut away the excess , and tape the plastic on the top flat of the barrel so it stays put. I use 5 min. epoxie , and when it's ready , pour it into the channel. Looks like the damage is from the breech plug to about 8 or 9 inches foreward , easy peasy dependable fix. ......Last 60+ yrs. , I've glass bedded many new modern rifle stocks , and damaged m/ stocks w/total success. I quit using all the commercial bedding release agents , due to poor results. I do highly recommend colored epoxie dye paste from Brownells. Brown epoxie dye paste , using just the tip of a screwdriver amount can make the epoxie blend into the finish of a rifle making the glue invisible. Good for gluing plugs in powder horns , too. ..0ldwoodchas........:thumb:
 
oldwoodchas. said:
Quig........You can easily epoxie bed the barrel where the break is under the barrel. Have done this many times. Here's how. Instead of messy release agents , Wrap the length of the gunbarrel in a single thickness of plastic shopping bag , cut away the excess , and tape the plastic on the top flat of the barrel so it stays put. I use 5 min. epoxie , and when it's ready , pour it into the channel. Looks like the damage is from the breech plug to about 8 or 9 inches foreward , easy peasy dependable fix. ......Last 60+ yrs. , I've glass bedded many new modern rifle stocks , and damaged m/ stocks w/total success. I quit using all the commercial bedding release agents , due to poor results. I do highly recommend colored epoxie dye paste from Brownells. Brown epoxie dye paste , using just the tip of a screwdriver amount can make the epoxie blend into the finish of a rifle making the glue invisible. Good for gluing plugs in powder horns , too. ..0ldwoodchas........:thumb:
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Thank you very much for such a detailed explanation! I considered bedding it but that barrel sits so tight in that stock there isn’t any room unless I go in and carve some away which I’ve considered. Time will tell how it holds up
 

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