So supposedly my walnut kibler Fowler kit will be here tomorrow. I was wondering if you guys with experience could critique my staining idea. I want a finish that is reddish with a little yellow, I also wanted to accentuate the grain. My idea was plan 1, to first use black analine stain powder mixed with water for first whiskering (to accentuate grain/pores), Maybe even during tool mark removal since these don’t require a whole lot. Then apply yellow analine/water stain, then whisker again and finally use French red filler sand and start with oil finish. My other option plan 2, would be just to use French red filler , sand then oil finish. Is plan one too much? I don’t mind the stock darkening but don’t want to totally obscure the grain or and figure if I can help it.
Critique my walnut stain ideas please
- Thread starter Texcl2
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Unless someone has done this exact sequence I would suggest you make a trial run on a decent size piece of scrap. I finished hardwood floors professionally for more than 30 yrs and was called on to do many custom colors. We always made samples before starting the job, never on the floor itself. My thought of starting with black though is that is a color that is hard to change once it penetrates. Make a sample.
Yeah, I suppose it’s not necessary. I could use flat black paint or nothing at all too, I suppose. I asked for some scrap with my supplies, so we’ll see when that stuff arrives.
Kibler will happy to send you some scraps of walnut from their wood pile so you get some walnut to test your ideas on that's as close to what your stock is going to be as one can get.
You know what they say, once you go black it’s hard to go back.
I have done a lot of gun stock staining using alcohol soluble and oil soluble powdered aniline dyes. Aniline dyes are much more transparent than any of the stains that are offered. They let you see the grain and don't cover it up, like stain incorporated finishes do.
In my experience you have to be very careful when applying dyes to raw wood because the dies will soak much further into the end grain of the stock, making the wood much darker in color, and not so much into the side grain, making it noticeably lighter. If using black dye before a first coat of finish, you won't want to sand the wood down far enough to remove the black dye and leave it only in the pores. I think you'd be much better off applying black dye after the first light coat of thinned finish so that it only goes into the not-yet-filled pores of the wood. Lightly sand to remove the dye off the wood's surface, it won't soak in far, if at all. The color will appear much more uniform. Then apply other coats of finish to which the desired aniline dye color has been added. Hope that helps!
In my experience you have to be very careful when applying dyes to raw wood because the dies will soak much further into the end grain of the stock, making the wood much darker in color, and not so much into the side grain, making it noticeably lighter. If using black dye before a first coat of finish, you won't want to sand the wood down far enough to remove the black dye and leave it only in the pores. I think you'd be much better off applying black dye after the first light coat of thinned finish so that it only goes into the not-yet-filled pores of the wood. Lightly sand to remove the dye off the wood's surface, it won't soak in far, if at all. The color will appear much more uniform. Then apply other coats of finish to which the desired aniline dye color has been added. Hope that helps!
that’s good info, I think I won’t do the black stain at this point.
Mgbruch
40 Cal
You really can't tell what needs to be done, until you get your piece of wood. If you can get a scrap from the same tree, that would be good. A scrap from a different tree isn't going to tell you anything about your stock.
You need Smart Dog to give you the lowdown.
I did ask for some scrap, I hope it arrives with the kit. At this point I’m just going to focus on the French red and if I think it needs some yellow I can always add it to the finish as suggested earlier. The good thing is this first kit is going to be my rough and tumble fowler so mistakes can be made and I’ll not be too upset.
Walnut is an easy wood to work with as regards finishing. Just my opinion but I would sand in the wood with any poly or thinned Tru Oil until the pores are filled. Then give it a sanding with linseed oil down to 600 grit. After that, forget about the finish and just go shoot the thing for a few weeks to let the linseed cure. After that you can put on more linseed or use a poly or Tru Oil or whatever you want. I like the linseed for the warmth and the way it darkens the wood. If you want something really simple that has a good look to it try beeswax and linseed oil in a 50/50 mix. I may give it a shot with my current build using a good chunk of walnut. I've never done it on a stock but have seen some treated that way that looked really good. As mentioned, spend some time trying it on samples. A nice piece of walnut usually doesn't need any staining, other than maybe some red oil for that British or old Winchester look.
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Best not use black stain or even walnut stain on walnut as both will kill the figure , if there is any. I use an orange alcohol base stain. However , orange doesn't kill the figure , and imparts an almost antique look to walnut. Also , American walnut colored fillers again , are dark and mask delicate figure. Try all stains on test wood. I have worked with American black walnut , Circasian walnut ( from Turkey) , Claro walnut California , French walnut , English walnut. Each has different stains to manage for each unique look. Alcohol base stains are easier to work with , because 90% rubbing alcohol will almost remove any stain mistake , so corrections can be formulated and reapplied.
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I’ve been on the same path that The Crisco Kid has explained for a month and a half. Shooting on weekends and making one coat a week. After reading your post I’m thinking the red tint may be what is missing. Thanks for sharing.
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Yeah, my stock is similar to yours, light colored with a grey purple hue. If theres scrap with my kit, I’ll apply some French red right away then some truoil and post the results so you can see. Should have it tomorrow although we are having another major snow storm currently.
Slow and steady wins the race!
So here is my stock un-stained and one with the French red drying. It’ll get knocked back of course once it dries. I can’t wait to knock it back and put the first coat of oil on. I did want it dark, lol, 
. It’ll lighten up some when it’s sanded back. The filler is dark brown and that’s a lot of what you see in the picture.
. It’ll lighten up some when it’s sanded back. The filler is dark brown and that’s a lot of what you see in the picture.
AZ, can you post a picture of the stock? I’ve been reading about soaking alkanet root in the finish to impart a reddish hue. I have a second kit in 16ga coming and might do something different. I do think when this stock is “knocked back” it will look quite a bit different.
Yes, I just posted some pics and video in a new thread on how I did it. https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/threads/walnut-finished-with-chambers-oil-how-i-did-it.188663/
Earlier I did a sample of different ways to use Alkanet root. I thought I posted a thread but can't find it. Here is my test block. Upper left is what I wanted, it is 2-3 coats of Alkanet soaked in Boiled Linseed oil for 8 months, then over finished with 8-9 coats of Chambers Oil, drying 24 hrs between each. The grain was finer on this wood than my rifle, filled faster. Middle column was Alkanet in just Mineral Spirits. Right column was no alkanet, raw wood. Upper on each column is chambers oil, about 3-4 coats right, 5-7 middle, 8-9 left.
Earlier I did a sample of different ways to use Alkanet root. I thought I posted a thread but can't find it. Here is my test block. Upper left is what I wanted, it is 2-3 coats of Alkanet soaked in Boiled Linseed oil for 8 months, then over finished with 8-9 coats of Chambers Oil, drying 24 hrs between each. The grain was finer on this wood than my rifle, filled faster. Middle column was Alkanet in just Mineral Spirits. Right column was no alkanet, raw wood. Upper on each column is chambers oil, about 3-4 coats right, 5-7 middle, 8-9 left.
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