Jukar trigger assembly

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JollyRoger

JollyRoger

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I have an unfinished Jukar "Philadelphia Derringer" that a friend gave me. I'm in the process of finishing/refinishing it. The trigger is really hard to pull, and wondering if I did a little filing on the firing latch, would this make it easier to operate. Where the arrow is, should I file a small amount of the ridge off, or is it an angle issue? Yes, I've since put in a pin to hold the barrel on.
IMG_3075.jpg
IMG_3967 2.jpg
 
JollyRoger said:
I have an unfinished Jukar "Philadelphia Derringer" that a friend gave me. I'm in the process of finishing/refinishing it. The trigger is really hard to pull, and wondering if I did a little filing on the firing latch, would this make it easier to operate. Where the arrow is, should I file a small amount of the ridge off, or is it an angle issue? Yes, I've since put in a pin to hold the barrel on. View attachment 367302View attachment 367303
Click to expand...
What is the current weight of the trigger pull?
 
You might be able to disassembled the lock, polish it up and then lube with a little grease on the tumbler and sear when reassembling. I have a jukar rifle and that helped my trigger pull.
 
That full cock notch has about twice as much material as it needs. If you fool with it go slow and don't change the angle of the trigger sear and full cock notch. Lots of assembly and disassembly is in your future. One thing to have is a mainspring vice. Track of the Wolf usually has them.
 
JollyRoger said:
I have an unfinished Jukar "Philadelphia Derringer" that a friend gave me. I'm in the process of finishing/refinishing it. The trigger is really hard to pull, and wondering if I did a little filing on the firing latch, would this make it easier to operate. Where the arrow is, should I file a small amount of the ridge off, or is it an angle issue? Yes, I've since put in a pin to hold the barrel on. View attachment 367302View attachment 367303
Click to expand...
Not having this in my hands here is what I would do based on what I see and don't know: Stone and polish the tumbler notch, and sear tip, making sure I do not change any angles. Shim the tumbler full cock notch so the sear is bearing 100% of it's toe thickness. Check the sear spring and thin if it is too stout. All you need is enough energy to make the sear engage in the full cock notch. If the mainspring is too stout, I would thin that. Check the trigger to make sure if works free when not moving any parts. The pivot pin of the trigger may need to be moved closer to the sear bar. See diagram.
Larry
Screenshot 2024-12-09 at 10.09.25 AM.png
 
Last edited:
Keep in mind this type of firearm is meet to be used at five feet or less! Point and jerk the trigger under stress! That sear is contacting the tumbler notch at a negative angle and requires it to push the mainspring as it moves. These cheaply made locks will have poor heat treatment and filing or stoning the notch will expose the soft part of the tumbler metal. A very light touch of a fine stone to smooth the engaging surfaces then lube with a hi pressure grease is the safest option.
 
Larry (Omaha) said:
Not having this in my hands here is what I would do based on what I see and don't know: Stone and polish the tumbler notch, and sear tip, making sure I do not change any angles. Shim the tumbler full cock notch so the sear is bearing 100% of it's toe thickness. Check the sear spring and thin if it is too stout. All you need is enough energy to make the sear engage in the full cock notch. If the mainspring is too stout, I would thin that. Check the trigger to make sure if works free when not moving any parts. The pivot pin of the trigger may need to be moved closer to the sear bar. See diagram.
LarryView attachment 367337
Click to expand...
Thanks for the drawing and explanation, much appreciated.
 

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