Suggestions wanted, busted spring on my lock. See image for details...

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Rebel bull said:
No you don’t need a new lock there’s no better lock made for your gun sears are cheap usually available on eBay I carry them when I’m at multiple day shoots
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Agree, orderd a sear from same group for back up on adjustment failure... Thanks.
 
Bucks Co said:
If the rifle shoots well - why not go the whole hog and buy an L&R RPL - I put one in my old CVA and it's never missed a beat. Awesome product.
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Going to wait and see, when the new spring and sear arrive. Will test it out, then decide. May just sell it off.
 
LonestarShootR said:
Just recently installed a new sear spring on my nearly 50 yr old CVA. There are two types a newer style and an older one.
I ordered from gun works muzzleloading emporium in Oregon.
It's a different place where you order online and they then call you to actually place an order. You can describe exactly what you need.
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I ordered a spare set of every spring for my Jukar rifle from them as well as several other parts. I almost didn't answer the phone when they called because I didn't realize that's how they did it. From my experience they seem like a good small business that are very helpful when you have questions.
 
awreis said:
I ordered a spare set of every spring for my Jukar rifle from them as well as several other parts. I almost didn't answer the phone when they called because I didn't realize that's how they did it. From my experience they seem like a good small business that are very helpful when you have questions.
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Similar experience. Gun emporium order process is unique. However, seems good so far. They shipped same day on each part orderd.

Course when they arrive. It will be nice if the fittings go well.
 
wpage said:
Similar experience. Gun emporium order process is unique. However, seems good so far. They shipped same day on each part orderd.

Course when they arrive. It will be nice if the fittings go well.
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That is one nice thing about these locks. Spare parts are fairly easy to come by. Mine is a flintlock and I'm actually pretty satisfied with it. Though I've never fored a high quality lock so I don't have much to judge it against but I'm happy with it.
 
awreis said:
I ordered a spare set of every spring for my Jukar rifle from them as well as several other parts. I almost didn't answer the phone when they called because I didn't realize that's how they did it. From my experience they seem like a good small business that are very helpful when you have questions.
Click to expand...


True that, I was a bit skeptical at first but gave them a shot. My phone doesn't acknowledge numbers that are not in my contacts do I had to call back when they called me after my order. I believe I talked with to Dave. Not knowing much about locks he talked me through it and I got the right parts.
I actually like that system they use though it is a bit odd in today's online ordering.

That's why I recommended them days ago.
 
Update, the parts arrived and installed. Now a problem with the back trigger holding up on the shear. So I removed the back trigger and things are working well. I need to remember to keep the forward trigger down when cocking...

Thanks for all the great advise here! You guys are the best...
 
OK so now its working but only at 1/2 cock. ..

Looking at the pic. The plate behind 1/2 cock notch prevents the shear from engaging the full cock notch.

Any clues how to adjust the back plate properly to reach full cock hammer position?
 

Attachments

  • half cock.jpg
    half cock.jpg
    1.3 MB
@wpage, that plate is the fly. It should not cover the full cock notch. As the sear passes the half cock notch the nose of the sear should clear the fly leaving the full cock notch open. Is the screw in the bridle that serves as the axle for the sear overtightened preventing the sear from rotating into the full cock notch? Back that screw out 1/2 turn. Does the tumbler rotate enough to give the sear access to the full cock notch?
 
Grenadier1758 said:
@wpage, that plate is the fly. It should not cover the full cock notch. As the sear passes the half cock notch the nose of the sear should clear the fly leaving the full cock notch open. Is the screw in the bridle that serves as the axle for the sear overtightened preventing the sear from rotating into the full cock notch? Back that screw out 1/2 turn. Does the tumbler rotate enough to give the sear access to the full cock notch?
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Thanks for that...

So I took it apart lubed it again and re assembled. The fly is still not allowing the shear to engage. Going to keep manipulating this thing, see if it come clear.
 
@wpage, if the fly is properly installed in the lock, it cannot cover the full cock notch and prevent the sear from entering the full cock notch. Can the tumbler be rotated far enough for the sear to enter the full cock notch. This has me perplexed.
 
Some flys have a post that fits into a hole in the tumbler. This type of fly can't be installed improperly. Other flys have a hole that fits over a post on the tumbler--this type can be installed backwards and cause the symptoms you are describing. What type do you have?
 
If you're using the new sear, swap it back to the old one. The original one was likely bent up by the factory to clear the top of the trigger. Your new one sticking straight out at 90* may be contacting the top of the trigger so it won't go into full-cock. I've had a couple CVA/Traditions guns and both had the arm of the sear bent like yours...drove me nuts and I contacted customer service who said they were bent by the factory to have the proper fit with the trigger...
 
@wpage, I see a marking on the lock plate for the sear spring. It appears that the new sear spring is not in the same location as the old one. There should be a tip on the sear spring that fits into a slot in the lock plate. What is the object that I have a blue arrow pointing to.
368438-half-cock cropped.jpg


I would like to see the lock plate with the bridle removed. You may need to remove the main spring. I want to see the tumbler and the notches for full and half cock. You may need to install the screws temporarily to position the sear and the sear spring. I want to see the projection of the fly.
 
I took the new sear and ground off some material and now it clears the fly and seams to be working properly.

Thanks again to all who took the time to advise.
 

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