My Botched Carving Job

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Remember the Pedersoli Pennsylvania longrifle I tried carving on a while back?

Bad Carving Job.jpg


Well I was looking at it again wondering how to "fix" it. Currently my thought is to fill it with wood filler then paint the whole stock. Might even try my hand at faux tiger maple. Any other ideas? Advice?
 

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Remember the Pedersoli Pennsylvania longrifle I tried carving on a while back?

View attachment 380797

Well I was looking at it again wondering how to "fix" it. Currently my thought is to fill it with wood filler then paint the whole stock. Might even try my hand at faux tiger maple. Any other ideas? Advice?
I would start with getting what you have on a piece of paper, maybe take a rubbing of it. Then you could work the design as wiscoster suggests, but rather than ‘live’ on the stock wood, on a piece of paper. If you can make it look good on paper….

How deep is your current carving? Shallow enough to maybe remove enough wood to remove at least some of the carving to don’t like?

I would avoid the wood filler and a paint job. Let your skill as a craftsman show through as you figure out a solution that makes you happy and proud.
 
Some of the places where your curls aren't perfect could easily be disguised by adding additional curls. Please don't paint it. That would be really disgusting.
Yeah, every where a curve is a little sharp, ad a leaf, curl or tendril. It may not be master quality, but maybe an ambitious apprentice tried his hand.
 
The expensive solution I though about a while ago was a new stock. Figured out the Pecatonica Late Lancaster stock would work.
 
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I would start with getting what you have on a piece of paper, maybe take a rubbing of it. Then you could work the design as wiscoster suggests, but rather than ‘live’ on the stock wood, on a piece of paper. If you can make it look good on paper….

How deep is your current carving? Shallow enough to maybe remove enough wood to remove at least some of the carving to don’t like?

I would avoid the wood filler and a paint job. Let your skill as a craftsman show through as you figure out a solution that makes you happy and proud.

Sage advice.
 
I would keep going. Practice carving over the entire stock. Then stain the whole stock darker. It would be unique and I think it would look quite good.
Restaining it could prove problematic, I used Lin-Speed oil to finish it. I guess I could use mineral spirits but if the finish has cured (and it has) it probably wouldn't work.
 
I’m not picking, I have done much worse…what did you do to darken it? It looks like a wood burner did the design. My first rifle has much more than that wrong with it. It still does because I can remember all the hours I spent making it. Then I remind myself to go slower. And it shoots just fine…
 
How did you do this? Someone mentioned that it looks like you used a wood burning tool, I think so too, is that what you used?

This could definitely be cleaned up to look pretty nice. Variation in line thickness is always preferable to the eye than just a single line thickness. That is how I would start cleaning it up. I would sketch thicker line where your non-smooth curves are. Go from thick to thin using a smooth curve. Something like a flexible French curve (if you can find one) can help you sketch flowing lines if you have trouble doing that freehand. Once sketched on the stock (you could use a grease pencil vs something like a Sharpie.) The grease pencil lines can be easily rubbed off if you aren’t happy with the design.

Once happy with the sketch, I would start with a small gouge (chisel). Wood only wants to be cut in one direction. Experiment with some scrap wood to understand how it wants to be cut. Once you get the feel you can look at your design and pretty much tell which way you want to attack the particular cut.

Your chisel will be at a rather shallow angle to the surface of the wood, almost laying flat. Your strong hand will guide the chisel and your weak hand will be resting on your strong hand to keep it from going where you don’t want it to go. You will take very small cuts, don’t try to cut what you want to remove in one pass.

Anytime that you are trying to get a lot of control of any hand tool you must be, what I used to tell my metal smithing students, tight. No not via alcohol but you need to be based. Anchor your hands, sit down as well. I also used to tell them that. When you sit down that is one less thing that your brain has to think of. Of course depending on what you are doing and how you are holding the stock that might not be possible. I have done a lot of work on gun stocks and grips while standing but if you can sit that is preferable. Sounds silly but it is something that I have noticed over the years, especially with students.

You MUST have a very sharp gouge, if you don’t know how to sharpen a chisel, you must get that skill developed before you go to cutting wood. Even if the gouge you purchase is sharp, it won’t stay sharp. You will need a “slip stone” when sharpening a gouge.

I hope this helps in some small way. If Duke City is anywhere near Beaver County Pennsylvania, I would be happy to have you come to my shop and give you a hand.

Your stock is definitely salvageable!
 
How did you do this? Someone mentioned that it looks like you used a wood burning tool, I think so too, is that what you used?

This could definitely be cleaned up to look pretty nice. Variation in line thickness is always preferable to the eye than just a single line thickness. That is how I would start cleaning it up. I would sketch thicker line where your non-smooth curves are. Go from thick to thin using a smooth curve. Something like a flexible French curve (if you can find one) can help you sketch flowing lines if you have trouble doing that freehand. Once sketched on the stock (you could use a grease pencil vs something like a Sharpie.) The grease pencil lines can be easily rubbed off if you aren’t happy with the design.

Once happy with the sketch, I would start with a small gouge (chisel). Wood only wants to be cut in one direction. Experiment with some scrap wood to understand how it wants to be cut. Once you get the feel you can look at your design and pretty much tell which way you want to attack the particular cut.

Your chisel will be at a rather shallow angle to the surface of the wood, almost laying flat. Your strong hand will guide the chisel and your weak hand will be resting on your strong hand to keep it from going where you don’t want it to go. You will take very small cuts, don’t try to cut what you want to remove in one pass.

Anytime that you are trying to get a lot of control of any hand tool you must be, what I used to tell my metal smithing students, tight. No not via alcohol but you need to be based. Anchor your hands, sit down as well. I also used to tell them that. When you sit down that is one less thing that your brain has to think of. Of course depending on what you are doing and how you are holding the stock that might not be possible. I have done a lot of work on gun stocks and grips while standing but if you can sit that is preferable. Sounds silly but it is something that I have noticed over the years, especially with students.

You MUST have a very sharp gouge, if you don’t know how to sharpen a chisel, you must get that skill developed before you go to cutting wood. Even if the gouge you purchase is sharp, it won’t stay sharp. You will need a “slip stone” when sharpening a gouge.

I hope this helps in some small way. If Duke City is anywhere near Beaver County Pennsylvania, I would be happy to have you come to my shop and give you a hand.

Your stock is definitely salvageable!
I used a V gouge, didn't know any better. As for how close I am....... About 1644 miles....... Duke City is one of the nick names for Albuquerque New Mexico founded in 1706. The Spanish residents at the time petitioned the Spanish Duke of Alburqueque. The first R was dropped later as the Anglo residents found it difficult to pronounce.
 
I used a V gouge, didn't know any better. As for how close I am....... About 1644 miles....... Duke City is one of the nick names for Albuquerque New Mexico founded in 1706. The Spanish residents at the time petitioned the Spanish Duke of Alburqueque. The first R was dropped later as the Anglo residents found it difficult to pronounce.
IMG_5244.jpeg
Just a quick sketch over your photo smoothing out some of your curve and incorporating variation in line thickness.
 
Everytime I get the urge to carve one of my rifles I practice on a piece of similar wood and critique my finished practice piece when I am done. After seeing what I am capable of I have yet to put a chisel to one of my rifle stocks, definitely a good thing.

A plain gunstock looks ten times better than a badly carved one.
 
I would do what others have suggested, rub/copy, redraw, add carvings. You could change from incised carving to relief carving too. This removal and flattening of surrounding surface may change the look considerably.
 
Remember the Pedersoli Pennsylvania longrifle I tried carving on a while back?

View attachment 380797

Well I was looking at it again wondering how to "fix" it. Currently my thought is to fill it with wood filler then paint the whole stock. Might even try my hand at faux tiger maple. Any other ideas? Advice?
Don't fix it if it ain't broke!!! WE are the most critical looking at our OWN work.
Looks VERY GOOD from here!! It's YOURS so do what you want but me? Me? :thumb: :thumb: :cool: :cool:
 


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