Casting roundballs tips? Recommendations?

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Captainflint

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I am considering casting my own round balls for a couple different calibers (45, 50, 54 rifles and a .62 smoothbore). Can any of you please share any successes or failures that I could learn from before starting along with any recommendations for molds? Much obliged!
 
I am considering casting my own round balls for a couple different calibers (45, 50, 54 rifles and a .62 smoothbore). Can any of you please share any successes or failures that I could learn from before starting along with any recommendations for molds? Much obliged!

I've had success with Lee molds and with "scissor" molds, both DGW and Rapine brand

Take a candle, and put soot on the inside of the mold, as it will release your poured ball better

When done using a mold that has the sprue-cutter attached to the top of the mold (not an old fashioned scissor mold), look at where the sprue was cut to see if there is a small but visible hole into the ball there. This may indicate a void formed and the ball may not fly true.

Weigh your cast ball when completely cooled.

LD
 
For ML balls, you want pure lead. No wheel weights, junk fishing weights Etc. Don't use those little brass molds that come with repro revolvers, get a real mold. What Alex said about Lee molds is true, they are inexpensive and cast good balls when HOT. They do not last long if you cast a lot of balls. You can cast (I did for years) out of a yard sale iron skillet on the kitchen stove, when your wife is not looking, or on a cheap hot plate. You will want a proper lead dipper. I have an extra if you need it. Pre heat your mold after cleaning it of all oil. I use alcohol or break cleaner, it must be clean! Flux you lead. I use a spoon full of bee's wax, and stir it in with your dipper. It will smoke like hell, and catch fire! The fire burns off most of the smoke. If you spill the molten wax your house will catch on fire!
All joking aside this is best done outside, for ventilation and fire proofness. Fill your dipper with clean lead, tilt mold on side, place dipper in mold, then tip it right side up over your pot. Let the mold fill then keep poring lead into the mold for another few seconds, until a nice large puddle forms on the top of your mold. Let harden. I push the spurce plate open with a stout stick, tap the mold HANDLE and the ball will fall out. In order to not be standing around waiting for the bullet to harden, I cast 2 molds at a time, say a 36 and a 50 so they are easy to sort. While one hardens, I cast the other. Keep water OUT of your mold!! Wear long sleeves, gloves, AND GLASSES. GOOD LUCK.
 
What are some good sources for clean lead? I’ve thought about melting down bullets for modern reloading I’ve seen for on estate sales, are there some other good alternatives for clean lead?
 
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For ML balls, you want pure lead. No wheel weights, junk fishing weights Etc. Don't use those little brass molds that come with repro revolvers, get a real mold. What Alex said about Lee molds is true, they are inexpensive and cast good balls when HOT. They do not last long if you cast a lot of balls. You can cast (I did for years) out of a yard sale iron skillet on the kitchen stove, when your wife is not looking, or on a cheap hot plate. You will want a proper lead dipper. I have an extra if you need it. Pre heat your mold after cleaning it of all oil. I use alcohol or break cleaner, it must be clean! Flux you lead. I use a spoon full of bee's wax, and stir it in with your dipper. It will smoke like hell, and catch fire! The fire burns off most of the smoke. If you spill the molten wax your house will catch on fire!
All joking aside this is best done outside, for ventilation and fire proofness. Fill your dipper with clean lead, tilt mold on side, place dipper in mold, then tip it right side up over your pot. Let the mold fill then keep poring lead into the mold for another few seconds, until a nice large puddle forms on the top of your mold. Let harden. I push the spurce plate open with a stout stick, tap the mold HANDLE and the ball will fall out. In order to not be standing around waiting for the bullet to harden, I cast 2 molds at a time, say a 36 and a 50 so they are easy to sort. While one hardens, I cast the other. Keep water OUT of your mold!! Wear long sleeves, gloves, AND GLASSES. GOOD LUCK.
Excellent detail, thank you for providing your experience!
 
Good sources of soft mostly pure lead are from old plumbing and roofing. You can also buy from places like Roto Metals. I’ve always found scrap lead at yard/estate sales, roofers and plumbers. I’ve also purchased some from local scrap yards.

When casting avoid wearing polyester or other synthetic clothing. That stuff melts and burns easily.

If you drop lead on concrete and it makes a dull thud sound it is probably soft enough. If it clinks it is too hard for muzzleloaders. Lead bullets for centerfire guns may be hard due to the addition of other metals.
 
Fluxing lead: Your lead will have dirt and other impurities in it. Things like tin, antimony. Fluxing it will bring the dirt to the top, as it is much lighter than lead. Tin will also often float to the top and can be skimmed off with some success. Any trace elements of tin etc in the lead will also get mixed in thoroughly making your bullets weigh more consistently. You can buy flux from Brownell's. It is expensive, but not flammable, and less messy than what I use. I use bee's wax or candle wax. Cheaper but highly flammable and prone to spill out of the pot.
 
Wheel-Weights and scrap lead work perfectly fine for patched roundballs.

.570 Wheel-Weight ball
Offhand
20230312_182228.jpg

10 shots .570 wheel-weight at 25yards offhand
20230507_194359.jpg

Top target 5 shots,
Bottom target is 10 shots,
50 yards offhand
wheel-weight .570rb
20241101_110639.jpg

First shot fired,
kneeling at 215 yards
.570 wheel-weight!
20230410-112743.jpg
215yard result,
20230331_175158-1.jpg

I really like lyman moulds, but Lee's work just fine.
 
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I recently started doing it as well, and I can second what’s already been said. What Kansas Jake said is spot on. I bought some lead that was supposed to be soft off eBay. It was not. It has to be pure lead. I found some plumbing and roofing lead. It’s perfect. That is what you need. I found mine by posting a wanted on my local community Facebook page. The thumping on concrete is the perfect test.
 
When you pour your lead into the sprue hold to fill the mould, make sure you keep the molten lead covering the sprue hole until it freezes over. If you take the ladle away too soon, you can see the lead shrink down into the mould and it will suck air in with it creating a bubble or void into the middle of your roundball affecting accuracy. By keeping the molten lead covering the sprue hole, it stops that problem. It is OK to have some overflow and it drips over the side of the mould as that is keeping the sprue hole covered with molten lead. All that is cut away anyway. I use a good set of something called gate cutters to cut the sprue from the ball. They are slightly curved and it gives you a nice clean cut.
Ohio Rusty ><>
 
Fluxing lead: Your lead will have dirt and other impurities in it. Things like tin, antimony. Fluxing it will bring the dirt to the top, as it is much lighter than lead. Tin will also often float to the top and can be skimmed off with some success. Any trace elements of tin etc in the lead will also get mixed in thoroughly making your bullets weigh more consistently. You can buy flux from Brownell's. It is expensive, but not flammable, and less messy than what I use. I use bee's wax or candle wax. Cheaper but highly flammable and prone to spill out of the pot.
The instructions that I read many years ago said to use candle wax or paraffin, or a chunk of rosin about the size of a bean; but in my many experiences, any kind of wax is so much lighter than lead that it just floats on top and most of the time burned off in a moment or two, meanwhile any other metals, rocks, dirt etc that are not alloyed to the lead seem to float with or without the momentary addition of the wax.
Then again, if using an alloy, adding flux and stirring insures the alloy is fully combined with the lead, so it seems to me to be contrary to the ideal of using pure lead.
With my bottom-pour pot, I seem to do just as well without any attempt at fluxing and have used some questionable lead to get pretty good shooting balls. I'm still on the fence about the flux, but tend to think that it should be reserved for hard bullets.
In other uses of flux, it is to clean the metals being joined and to keep the molten metal from oxidizing as it joins, IIRC, and that seems to be about the same as in making lead alloys.
I'd read any reference materials explaining this, as it applies to pure lead balls.
 
i remember the Bevel Bros. doing an article on pure lead balls and wheel weight balls. The found no difference in accuracy. As far as hunting goes, solids were used in Africa for all kinds of game with good results. When I lived in Jersey and was required to use slugs, I always wondered why 12 gauge slugs were made with pure lead .
Why would you need expansion on a projectile that started out with approximately .700 diameter? How many smaller low velocity rounds could expand that much?
 
There are a bunch of good responses above. My method varies slightly. For a heat source, I was given an old Coleman stove which was rigged up to use Coleman propane stove fuel. I bought a steel lead melting pot from one of the usual suspects...Track of the Wolf, Log Cabin, ...somebody, along with a ladle, and some casting flux from Dixie Gun Works, which I guess they don't carry anymore.

I've used Lee aluminum molds, Rapine scissor molds, & a Tanner mold. They're all fine and do the job.

Working out doors is best. So pick a warm, sunny day. Wear welding gloves & safety glasses, long sleeves, & jeans...no polyester whatsoever. That stuff is essentially plastic and melts, not burns. And working on a warm sunny day, keep the sweat from dripping into your molten lead. Hot lead & water don't mix.
 


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