Blockage between cap nipple and bore.

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After verifying it's not loaded, I go into a dark room, shine the bore light down to see if it shines out the touch-hole or nipple. And then double a torch tip cleaner and flashlight. Made the mistake once early in my BP experience of loading a CVA Kentucky Pistol that I bought new.
 
The first BP rifle I ever bought was bought from the "for sale" table at a match. Being a complete novice, I popped a cap and couldn't get it to shoot, could tell it was loaded, and someone had tried to use a screw style ball puller and had drilled a hole in the ball. Unable to blow it out using CO2 or 4f under the nipple. Ended up taking it to a gunsmith who pulled the breech plug and pounded the obstruction out with a brass rod and hammer. "Probably not smart on his part" This cost more than I paid for the rifle. It had not one, but THREE loads in the bore. Was probably a VERY good thing it didn't fire.
 
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UPDATE: The grease gun technique produced a result...a blob of what looked like a semi-hard ball of rusted something resembling wadded up cloth. After quite some time of cleaning, blowing and swabbing I ran the camera down the barrel again. At the breech there is a glob of something resembling a nest BB's or shot. I've attached a short video and a picture. I'm thinking running a rod down with a pronged patch retriever might chop/loosen up the nest enough to blow it out from the nipple hole. Thoughts?
 

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I would plug the nipple and then pour boiling water into the barrel, being careful not to burn yourself. It may take several attempts to loosen up the remaining grease. It looks like the grease is still holding some of the lead. The barrel will get very hot. during this procedure.
Remove the plug from the nipple, get some cleaning patches and a cleaning jag. You should hear and maybe see some moisture and air come out of the nipple.
CAUTION, dry patches will get stuck. Use two patches for drying the barrel. Then lubricate a patch with oil to avoid the possibility of getting the patch stuck. Last thing you need is having the cleaning rod stuck in the barrel.
 
It looks like a patented breech, which is smaller than bore size. Use something to dissolve the grease first, then check the breech area again to be sure that is clear. Then run some wet cleaning patches through the bore, and then a dry patch. You should hear air escaping through the nipple and not feel much resistance when pushing the patches down the barrel.
Once you are satisfied that the barrel is clear, point the rifle in a safe direction, snap a few caps on an empty barrel.
 
This is a great thread. I hope you get all cleaned out and it shoots well for you. Can’t wait to see cam pictures of the breech area once you have it all cleaned up!
 
I would plug the nipple and soak the bore with the old stand by :eek:ne part alcohol, one part hydrogen peroxide, one part Murphy's oil soap. This mixture has been cleaning gumped up black powder guns for over fifty years.
 
What you are seeing is the remnants of a shot load that is now firmly stuck together at the breech. There was enough gaps between the shot to let the grease lift the over shot card. One of the corkscrew type patch pullers may loosen up that stuck shot. The boiling water may loosen up the shot. The shot has to be removed and there may well be another plug of dead powder. One of the better rust dissolvers is a 50/50 mix of ATF and acetone if the mix of MAP as described by @oldramrod doesn't get the job done.
 
@rhr1956,

I would like to see pictures of the breech of this smooth rifle. Does it have a chambered breech? Is the percussion drum (if it has a drum) threaded through the breech plug?

If the shot can't be broken loose, @bpd303 is suggesting about the only option left.
 

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@rhr1956,

I would like to see pictures of the breech of this smooth rifle. Does it have a chambered breech? Is the percussion drum (if it has a drum) threaded through the breech plug?

If the shot can't be broken loose, @bpd303 is suggesting about the only option left.
I would plug the nipple and soak the bore with the old stand by :eek:ne part alcohol, one part hydrogen peroxide, one part Murphy's oil soap. This mixture has been cleaning gumped up black powder guns for over fifty years.
Concoction is soaking in the breech. How long? Hours or days?
 
I have gotten a lot of gunk out of a few breeches with a steam cleaner. Always surprising what is melted and washed away.

Looking at your photographs it appears that the breech plug and barrel have been separated at least once in the past. As long as some sort of lubricant or anti-seize was used on the threads when it was reassembled and you have the proper tools, it should be a fairly straight forward task to remove the breech plug.
 
Concoction is soaking in the breech. How long? Hours or days?
The simple answer is as long as it takes for the blockage to come loose. Get a 1/4" to 3/8" diameter long rod that is longer than your barrel. Grind a point or a chisel edge. After your breech has soaked for a couple of hours, set the drained breech on a wooden support and give mass of shot a few firm taps. Rotate the barrel a quarter turn and tap again. Turn the barrel to pour out any loose shot. If you get it all out use the rod to break up the powder. If you are using MAP (Murphy's, alcohol and peroxide) the powder should be loose enough to be down out by compressed air. You can use a patched jag to flush out all remaining gunk with the breech in MAP. Do you normal cleaning.

If the shot isn't coming loose after soaking for a few days, then it's time for the extreme method to remove the breech plug. Based on your pictures, you have a snailed breech that is hopefully threaded to your barrel.

Be sure there is an index mark on the breech plug and the barrel for realignment on reassembly. There have been some of these low cost guns that welded the breech to the barrel. Judging from the fit I see in your photos, it should be threaded. Now all you need is a sturdy, heavy work bench with a large bench vise with protected jaws. Get a cardboard tube to use on your barrel. You will need a wrap of leather in the jaws of a very large adjustable jawed wrench around the breech plud where you can grip it. Crescent is the brand often used. You may need a long pipe for extra mechanical advantage. Once the plug is out, the long rod can be used to drive out the blockage.

Clean it up and reassemble.
 
The simple answer is as long as it takes for the blockage to come loose. Get a 1/4" to 3/8" diameter long rod that is longer than your barrel. Grind a point or a chisel edge. After your breech has soaked for a couple of hours, set the drained breech on a wooden support and give mass of shot a few firm taps. Rotate the barrel a quarter turn and tap again. Turn the barrel to pour out any loose shot. If you get it all out use the rod to break up the powder. If you are using MAP (Murphy's, alcohol and peroxide) the powder should be loose enough to be down out by compressed air. You can use a patched jag to flush out all remaining gunk with the breech in MAP. Do you normal cleaning.

If the shot isn't coming loose after soaking for a few days, then it's time for the extreme method to remove the breech plug. Based on your pictures, you have a snailed breech that is hopefully threaded to your barrel.

Be sure there is an index mark on the breech plug and the barrel for realignment on reassembly. There have been some of these low cost guns that welded the breech to the barrel. Judging from the fit I see in your photos, it should be threaded. Now all you need is a sturdy, heavy work bench with a large bench vise with protected jaws. Get a cardboard tube to use on your barrel. You will need a wrap of leather in the jaws of a very large adjustable jawed wrench around the breech plud where you can grip it. Crescent is the brand often used. You may need a long pipe for extra mechanical advantage. Once the plug is out, the long rod can be used to drive out the blockage.

Clean it up and reassemble.
 

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