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Thank you for that knowledge down load !

I would only be speculating as to their reasoning as are all others but it doesn't seem like they think arbor end fit nearly as important as some folks do. So I wonder why go to so much trouble to all other aspects of fit and finish and not end fit the arbor? I would think arbor end fit being...

They're selling guns like hot cakes "without" end fitting and they are generally better fit and finished in all other respects than their competitors !

Yup, a lower case r , my bad ! Actually I learned something today as I have always thought it was Partridge and wondered why they would be called that. It's a good day when one gets something straightened out that they should have known ! So was Patridge the name of the inventor ?

It's getting pretty short but you can grind them sharp with a green wheel (for carbide sharping ) on a standard bench grinder. Grind in short segments and keep it cool by dipping in water. I do it in my bare fingers so I can keep the heat down. Pressure flaking is the best for sharpening a...

Keep in mind any decent machinist can make the replacement parts needed like screws, wedges, triggers , hammers, etc for these obsolete models.

Deepening the hammer notch will not effect elevation once the notch has been given parallel notch walls. In a Ruger .45 Colt I had to get a higher front blade when I increased the load which means it shot flatter. I've always gone to a dove tail and partridge style sight on my open tops for...

Yeah, the post gives better definition and allows more accurate sighting of target or game in more light conditions than any other shape I can think of. I have learned though that cutting/filing a 45 degree back angle at the top rear will give you better lighting definition. The angle makes the...

The front of the hand/pawl that engages the ratchet teeth. See where the back of the notch has a bright rub mark from the bolt dome contact ? The cylinder is advancing a bit before the bolt is lifted clear of the notch and the dome is rubbing over the back edge. It doesn't really hurt anything...

The bolt lifts late and is not clearing the the back of the notch before the cylinder is advanced.

It will give you a better sight picture and definition if you install a flat topped cylinder .080 in diameter and sight it in for a six o'clock hold at what ever yardage you decide on.

I made an interesting discovery/observation some years ago on charcoal case hardening depth by accident. I was using some shim stock for blocking and after roughly six cycles of use on various rifle actions I was casing I decided to see how far the carbon had penetrated by bending (worry-ing)...

What was the first open top revolver model to have a spent cap groove milled into the recoil shield ?

What kind of barrel cylinder gap is present to begin with ? I wonder if the hand spring is to strong or the hand to long. Can you show a picture of the bolt notches,hand nose and ratchet teeth ?

I decided the Walker would be heavily loaded and would probably " need" the modification with the factory wedge it came with. Same reason I put the action shield on it after dropping a spent cap down the hammer mortise. Never had a cap drop into the action of any of my other revolvers hence not...

Thanks, good information I'll have to give a a try and see how it compares ! I'm not making knife blades but rather gun springs.

I like to use 320 on a sheet of plate glass or a diamond file that is 2"x 6" in the lathe.

I've had good success with Brownell's "Tough Quench" oil for 1095 springs . It's a thin sulferized oil designed specifically for quench hardening.

I've always found Lymans advise that a patch should leave it's weave imprint in the ball both in land and groove for a proper seal. I also read recovered patches to see if they are holding up after being shot with no holes or excessive fraying. I have settled on windshield wash as my go to patch...