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Thank you for the input and I absolutely agree. Will be trimmed down quite a bit, just in the shaping stage right now. I usually fit a contrasting wood such as Ebony but would like to try horn one day.

I fell in love with the feel of British sporting rifles LONG ago. Over the years I've had ones by Rigby, Mortimer, Gibbs, Alexander Henry and several others both original and modern, they all had a certain feel and balance. I first built one in the more traditional Gibbs style in .451 caliber...

British style match rifle with side hammer lock is starting to take shape. The lock is an L&R side hammer. Colerain .45 caliber barrel 32" long and 15/16" diameter, Dual action single set trigger.

As others have said, I plug the touch hole after removing the lock (I like to clean it well of powder residue) and then use a turkey baster to put the hot, soapy water into the bore. When clean I use some ATF (Automatic Transmission Fluid) on a patch to treat the bore.

As others have said, they were around but not common. I've seen many rifles that have cheek pieces on the right hand side of the stock and cast off for use by a lefty but with right handed locks.

I've finished and refinished many kit guns for people who do not have the time or woodworking skills to do it correctly. Generally "Kit" gun is a derogatory term but it should not be. If care is taken they will be better in every way to the factory finished ones, especially CVA. On all builds...

Take your time and pay attention to the details when finishing and you'll have a fine rifle. As others have mentioned I'd hold off on the scope.

The barrel is a 7/8" diameter, 36" long .50 caliber. The barrel is a bit lighter than the originals but like most of us the customer is getting older and didn't want a 10 pound rifle, this one comes in at about 7 1/2 pound. Lock is a Chambers late Ketland. Took some doing to stretch everything...

I've built a number of Lemans over the years. They were solid, sturdy working rifles but still had nice lines. The area around Bolton and Lancaster PA had a number of shops (actually small factories) that catered to the fur companies, traders and Indian agents and all of their rifles bore a lot...

Started on a Lehigh County style flinter, getting the barrel set into place. .58 Caliber Rice "C" weight barrel.

As is usually the case you get what you pay for. Good quality tools will work better and last a lifetime.

The Shinto rasp has been my go to rasp where I need to remove a lot of wood fast on strait flat surfaces but are not so good on working curved surface. For these areas I go back to old faithful cabinet makers rasp with a curved side and a flat side.

Thank you, have checked all traditional parts suppliers so needing to find someone who might have an old clunker that is ready to part out or maybe just has a few parts in a box. These are such fine pistols it is a shame that many will start going away because no parts are available to keep them...

Thank you. Please let me know when you get them.

Sure hope someone here can help me out, I am needing a Ruger "Old Army" hammer. The pistol is stainless steel but one from a blued pistol will work. If you have one in a parts drawer please let me know.

Go slow and take your time on details and it will be nice!

You picked a pretty complicated pattern for a first go but it looks like you're off to a good start! The carving is the easy part, clean up and smoothing just takes a LOT of time and not short cuts for it.

Recently picked up a New England style 20 gauge smoothbore. Barrel is stamped 3/80 with the initials BT on the bottom flat. Anyone know who this barrel maker might have been?

Had a friend make an inline from an old .22. It did shoot pretty well but needed to be swabbed nearly every shot. Cool novelty item but for practical use .32 would be about the smallest I'd go.

I hunt in thick scrubby woods and often take shots under 30 yards plus I'm getting old and don't want to carry a long, heavy rifle. Here is another one just finishing up with a .50 caliber 15" swamped barrel.