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Thank you

All I need to do it take down the brass button I installed on the arbor until the barrel lug meets the frame. So then my other question is once I do that, if I need to open up my barrel to cylinder gap, do I set that gap by filing material off of the forcing cone? Correct?

No, this gap was created when I extended the arbor. Barrel locks up solid when the wedge is in

Ok, and that’s exactly what I did. My gap then measures .008”. However, I have an equal gap where the barrel lugs meet the frame. Is that acceptable, or does that need to be closed up, and fit the cylinder gap by removing material at the forcing cone?

Good morning all. I’m sure this has been talked about a million times, but I’m having a hard time finding the actual method to measure barrel to cyl. gap on a Colt revolver. I know where to measure, but I’d like to know if the hammer should be down on a cone, Half cock with rearward pressure on...

I don’t think I could fit anymore powder in the chamber. The lube I used was a little too thick, so it was hard to see how they sat in there exactly. I think I need to see how they’re grouping first. And keep the lube to a minimum

So I fired off some fresh Jonson & Dow paper cartridges I made for my new Uberti 1860 Army. Using 25gn 3f in Dustin Wineager’s kit. At about 10 yards, they were shoot about a foot to the left. I didn’t get a chance to put them on paper to see if it was a consistent group, but I do know they were...

I can definitely see an issue with people Over greasing the arbor. Someone posted they smear a little white lithium grease just inside the arbor hole on the cylinder, that way when it slides on it covers just enough of arbor to keep it lubricated, yet creates a dam or seal to keep fouling out...

What happens when it over heats? Burns? I’ll do the that next time, I’m just wondering if my mix is any good, or did the wax burn off. Nothing was burnt in the pot...maybe I kept it under that temp you said

I just mixed 50/50 lamb tallow and beeswax tonight for bullet lube. I started melting down the tallow, then added a couple bars of wax. All seemed to work just fine. So what is the purpose of doing a double boiler?

I needed a new barrel for my Lyman GRP...cheapest I could find last winter was 300-350$ But I needed it

Good question...I assumed at first it was tapered on both sides, then looking closely and measuring with a veneer, only one side is tapered. On a new Uberti anyways

Thank you all for the help

Wow that would be wonderful...I’m going to measure it first. Fouling seemed a bit excessive, but then again I’m new to revolvers.

Good to know...so .008-.010, hammer down, as it lies

Well that’s exactly what I like about this stuff. It make you think

Okay, got that. ...so what is the target barrel/cylinder gap I’m looking to achieve? And do I check this at rest? Full cock with pushing the cylinder back?

So is it actually a tight fitting wedge we’re after? Or is that a correction to be made after the adjusted arbor length

Hi all, So I recently bought a Uberti 1860 Army from Taylor’s. I stripped it down and cleaned and de-burred, which seemed not to be too bad at all. Maybe that’s why Taylor’s are good...anyways, always reading how Uberti Colts all have this short arbor problem, I checked with the cylinder removed...

Just got my first revolver. 1860 Army made by Uberti. And boy, a lot of people aren’t kidding, these grips are RED. And slippery. What’s the best way to remove the glossy red without sanding?