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Amazing, you seemingly did that in the amount of time it took me to run to the store for a bag of ice and make a Greek salad for diner. Okay I'll admit there's quite a bit of chopping involved in the salad but, man, you are moving right along. Fine work indeed sir.

Just cut it off and make it a half stock... Only kidding, sorry I just couldn't resist.

Ya me too, pretty sure it won't last long.

Like this... https://www.trackofthewolf.com/Categories/PartDetail.aspx/492/1/AAV-058

Fine rifles indeed sir. I really like the loading bench, especially the clamp-on padded cradle on the corner...the copy cat in me may not be able to resist.

No luck at any WM's along 75/69 from McKinney TX to Atoka Ok. Atoka WM did have an empty peg and label where I guess some used to be.

I finally used up the first tin of TOW mink oil I bought about 15 years ago, ordered another tin a couple months ago, both smell the same, neither are bad.

What a beautiful rifle !!! Looks like the original trigger guard is broke out where the rear pin goes though? Could that not have a new pad soldered or brazed on and then re-drilled? Said repair wouldn't be visible when installed. The replacement is so close may not be worth the effort.

Thank you for this Mule. I had no idea there were some ML groups near me. Will be investigating this for sure amigo. :)

I figured maybe the OP could look at my numbers and realize starting out with the sights level to bore will result in really low POI. More to the point, start out with the rear sight at least a little higher than the front. Maybe I should have just said that. I never do the "math" either, that...

I have a 32" barrel, no taper 1" across flats. (.54 cal if it matters) The rear sight is 6.5" ahead of the breech. The front sight is 2" from the end of barrel. Front and rear sight 23.5" apart. Front sight height .252" Rear sight height .372" Rear sight .120" higher than front. POI same as POA...

I read somewhere on here a while back the 3 easy steps for keeping a muzzle loader clean. 1. Shoot the muzzle loader. 2. Clean the muzzle loader. 3. Shoot the muzzle loader again before it has a chance to rust. :)

I have been using RWS 1075 and 1075 plus. Never a hiccup. I use the regular 1075's for real BP and used to use the plus with BP substitutes in a TC Renegade that would have occasional ignition issues with standard caps. The plus are noticeably hotter, louder and spark more.

Cleaning a barrel as usual, I occasionally drop a AAA battery down the bore to see better the progress being made. Well, you guessed it, towards the end I forgot to dump the battery out and made the last few dry patch strokes and oiled patch stroke with the battery still in. Didn't realize it of...

That is interesting, to say the least.

Ya ya I get it guys, just thought it was kinda funny. I don't know that this was the lube used in said ML back in the day, it's just some stuff I've had laying around for years and upon reading the label, got a good chuckle out of it.

A short while back I was shooting and cleaning a new to me percussion ML in .54 cal manufactured in the early 80's, and was kinda alarmed at the amount of, what I would now call "build up" in the barrel, that seemed to be old lube of some kind. It would not be removed by cleaning in my usual...

I find the most interesting aspect of this calculator is the barrel length at which all powder is burnt. Fun to play with for sure and some surprising info. Swiss is the only powder in the formula, witch is good stuff, so keep in mind scheutzen and goex may produce lower numbers.

Kinda agree, looks like it works a little better with the aluminum. I'm not familiar with the tool, can it be sharpened or otherwise maintained for a good cut/stamp?

Try this. https://www.p-max.uk/cgi-bin/black_powder.cgi