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There's sugar maple, which we call hard maple; and red maple. There aren't really different classifications for red maple; and both species vary in their density. I've worked with sugar maple that has soft spots, and red maple that's pretty dense. Red maple is a little harder than walnut, in...

There is no factory ramrod for that gun. If you made, or make, one out of a good straight grained hickory rod, then you're good to go.

You could also end up with issues regarding the location and placement of the lock bolts, trigger, sear arm, and well as other internal parts. Chambers makes an excellent lock. I've used both their early and late Ketland locks. They're well made, and fast. From where I sit, there's no reason...

A "B" weight barrel in a .40 is not going to be a light gun.

When you do get it out, you might consider replacing them with steel screws.

For a Tennessee rifle, the design and execution are poor. It has a Siler lock, which is Germanic, and wrong for a southern gun. Southern guns used English locks. The lock still has it's "as cast" surfaces; which tells me that things, overall, probably didn't receive the attention they needed...

Yes, check a good resource before proceeding. Single triggers, like yours, were pinned through the stock... and higher up. The trigger plate served to accept the tang bolt, and to stabilize the trigger from side to side. With what you're doing, it's going to be harder to get a nice pull.

Will this quiz be a part of my grade?

Function aside, I think the geometry on those triggers is a problem. The bottom edges of the trigger bars rest above the trigger plate. Even taking most of the metal off the trigger bars, the sear of the lock is still going to need to be up a ways on the stock. And sears aren't. I make my...

Here is the Durs Egg for my current project; a left handed Southern Mountain Rifle. I also give it a bit of cosmetic work as well. Some is needed, some is just me.

I would recommend building the style of gun you want; and choosing a suitable lock based on that. Building around a lock is like the tail wagging the dog. What style is your semi-inletted (from scratch?) stock? And the other parts you've assembled? If the type of gun dictates a late English...

I've used three L&R (Durs Egg) locks on guns. I've gotten them all to be good, fast locks. But you literally have to fuss with every part,. I didn't have to touch the fly on two of them. It takes me a good bit of time. There are better locks; but not for left hand, and not for your gun.

Your gun doesn't really need an adjustable sight, does it? When we find a good load, we also know what the trajectory is for its effective range. Or, in my case, the effective range of my eyes. Get a chunk of iron and make a rear sight, leaving the dovetail oversized. Then you can gradually...

A blunderbuss is pretty much useless. Sure, it might be fun to see the effective range of shot on tin cans. But then what are you going to do with it? Shoot more cans at close range?

The book Kentucky Rifles Of The Great Smokey Mountains by Randal Pierce shows 23 long guns. Of those, 6 are obviously curly maple; most of which have very nice curl. If you mean by "aesthetically enhanced" you mean carving and engraving; as far as I know it's rare, but not unknown. One of the...

Here are two of the guns I've built. The first is my personal gun; and the second went somewhere else to live and work. On both I used a .50 caliber B weight swamped barrel, 44" long. The barrels are 1" at the breech, which allows for a nice slender rifle with good lines. The weight of each...

Based I do understand double set riggers; and have made my own for five rifles I've built. can't tell for certain, but based on the location of the sear arm to the bottom of the lock plate... And the location of the trigger bars in relation to the lock plate inlet, I would say the bars are too...

Test the lock while it's in the gun, while the triggers are out. You can trip the sear with a screwdriver. Then take the lock out, put the triggers in, and test them. If there's no wood interference, then I'd move on to the trigger bars. Don't be in a hurry. Take some time to figure it out...

In addition. That squared off end of the sear spring tells met that the lock has not had proper attention given to the internal parts. Something you can do while waiting for a replacement sear.

Not a Kibler; but this is "Miss Sally"... My personal gun that I built from a blank. I didn't polish the iron; but finished it to a 220 grit, followed by purple scotchbrite.