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The guard is inletted to the bevel, front and rear. The inlet is just over 1/16" deep. I made it.

I use screws. Many Southern Mountain Rifles have screw, and many are pinned. When pinned the lugs are staked into the guard. 1/16" pin stock is plenty.

By mortising, do you mean inletting? The front and rear extensions should absolutely be inlet. I don't recall seeing a photo of an original that was not. If you're talking about inletting the tabs used to pin a guard, take them off if you're going to use screws. Sounds like you're using a cast...

I like double set triggers. But if I acquired a nice gun with a single trigger, I'd leave it, adjust the pull to what I like, and go shooting. Sort of wondering what semi-custom is.

Curious ... what comes after the Chambers? I've never assembled a traditions kit, but I did assemble a CVA Mountain Rifle about 45 years ago. A good kit can teach you A lot about how things fit together, inside and out. Also about architecture, and proper transitions from one part of the gun to...

There's much more than a similar profile that makes a gun historically correct. Design, components , and architecture all come into play in order to create an arm that has the detail, handling, and performance of an original gun. It all comes down to what floats your boat.

It's not a difference of milliseconds , it's a difference that's noticeable, especially when it comes to follow through. Yes, the lock can be modified; but that may require paying a capable gunsmith. You can do a search on the forum for modifications to a traditions lock, and find out what has...

If historically correct is a definite criteria, then none of the production guns make the cut. Hard core would dictate a hand made arm; but that's a big budget issue. I'm a builder... and I'm pretty anal; so that's the perspective this comes from. A correct Harper's Ferry will be .54 caliber...

Iron mounted Southern Mountain rifles. I love the architecture, and well defined lines. They really appeal to my anal retentive nature. Properly constructed, they are long, slim, and they come up and handle like a dream.

Beautiful gun. If you use that fireplace, it's not going to stay that way. The heat will cause the finish to dull, and the wood to shrink. Gaps will develop in the wood to metal fit, and parts could get loose. If that happens, you cannot restore it completely. Just saying.

I'd leave that rear sight alone until you've found a good load for the gun. Only then will you know what needs to be done with the sights... front and rear.

My biggest fear is that you would actually finish the gun; then become enamoured with your next crazy idea involving propellant's and projectiles... and end up hurting yourself. Better off with a mysterious break in the tang to end the project. This ain't your cup of tea.

How big is too big? Lots of people like 1/16". I like 5/64".

What Mike just said. I haven't cleaned the threads with tap and die... haven't thought of it. But I'm going to start.

When working from a blank, some remove the breech plug to inlet the barrel, and some don't. I get the impression that most do. I do. Can't speak to the other way. I've built eleven rifles from a blank, and that sequence works for me.

You need a bench vice with metal jaws. You will need to use sheet copper or aluminum between the barrel and vice jaws to protect the barrel. The vice you're using is for wood work, not heavy metal work. For your task I use a heavy six inch bench vice. Use some oil, clamp it tight, and make...

Yea, I'm done for now. I'll come back in a week to see if this 3 day project is complete yet. I find it fascinating how glibly you go about turning an $1,100 kit into a $500 rifle. And at the same time you eat up the attention like you're starving. Seems like that's more important than a job...

On all the photos of Southern Mountain Rifles I've examined, the trigger guards are inletted. Some are flush, while others have bevels above the plane of the wood. Most are held by screws, but some of them, forged iron guards, are pinned in. In those cases the tab would have been staked into...

I just read this whole thread; and now I have a headache. All I can say is... this is a good thread on how Not to approach assembling a kit; and what not to do. Ready... Fire... Aim!

I'd clean it up using 220 grit sandpaper and maroon Scotchbrite. Don't know a thing about the type of blue you mentioned; but I do know that the bluing/browning process works best with clean metal.