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If your’e a gun builder it’s an important thing to know how to do.

This is rubbish, it would take a hundreds to thousands of turns to wear down breech plugs threads, gun builders regularly remove breech plugs to build guns.

Breech plug removal is easy once you gather hte right tools. In a nutshell, you need to secure the barrel as tight as possible, with anti twist shims, usually aluminium or brass works. If you’re trying to learn how to remove the plug, I think this is fine, just remember to realign the witness...

Not opening enough isn’t the same a rebound issue. If a spring is not opening usually the leaf spring is too strong and needs to be lightened. Send me a PM I have few locks i’m fixing now, I’ll send you some demo’s as an example, rather than debate, I can share some personal stuff

I woudln’t chamfer or reduce the pivot foot if there is a rebound. That will make it worse, that usually helps to slightly lighten the tension for a fast action, but you’re always better off working on the spring.

I agree with rich rebound is usually due to a weak frizzen spring, add tension.

Seems like there’s a few shops developing a CNC 1756 long land pattern for the 250th. The 1756 land pattern seems to be the direction most are headed, makes sense it was the long land variant that was most used throughout the entire war AWI. I’m going to be in the market for one if they’re...

Why do you think you need a new frizzen? Because of the scratches on the frizzen? This is normal, it’s a flintlock, the flint cuts small slices of steel off of the face of the frizzen. All perfectly normal. That frizzen will out live you you and your grandchildren.

There is absolutely no benefit to proofing your own barrel, telling anyone you proofed your own barrel is actually an incredible amount of legal liability to take on as there are no proofing standards in the USA. just keep your loads reasonable.

That’s bro cause its not stained, its oiled. Original guns were not stained. The coloration on the side panel is from age and use.

“I have made a lot of springs over the years successfully employed both techniques depending on application and am about to use the width reduction again on an overly robust Walker trigger spring leg“……..?

If you can make your own springs, what are you doing buying a replacement?

“When you get the proper shape then you will need to re-harden and temper it.“ If the spring is already hardened and tempered, you can file and reshape the spring without rehardening and tempering it. You dont’ want to reharden and temper a factory spring if you don’t need to. If the OP need...

I would not reduce the width, you should be reducing the top leaf of the spring, this can be done by sanding or filing with a #4 or #6 file. Always polish out the file marks. Closing the arms slightly to fit at 1300-1400 and retreating and tempering is an option, but you’d better know what...

Okay… but what’s wrong with the spring you have? Why do you need a back up ? You rarely need to take apart a lock on a finished gun.

It is the wrong spring, the lock for the Pedersoli Kentucky rifle, cub rifles and country hunter rifle all use very similar looking locks with slightly leaner parts. It’s easy to confuse them. Even the distributors like VTI confuse them.

Ed no longer lines barrels

Why do you want a back up spring? You’ll have to balance it, fit it etc if it’s not broke … don’t break it trying to fix it

I’ve seen this happen multiple times from accidental drops in shipment and in the field.

Why have you convinced yourself that you need a back up frizzen spring? The spring on there should work just fine. The only way It could accidentally break is if you compress too much. You should almost never have to take the lock apart anyway. Like that old saying curiously got that cat killed