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That's strange because my super companion misfires like crazy with the cci #11 caps. And I hate to keep pimping my homemade caps, but they work flawless on it so I've stuck to using them only.

It's definitely too easy and gratifying to make your own than to buy them. You'll always be ahead of the curve with very little money as well once you buy the supplies. And I do offer a kit to complete diy caps.

I was using the heeled bullets that NAA provides. Ironically I was going to reply to the chainfire thread yesterday about how stupid it is for people to worry about chainfires when they cut a nice circle of lead when loading. Guess karma bit my ass!

I honestly have no idea. It had to have been from some errant powder in the front of the cylinder. I know it didn't start at the rear because I could tell the powder set off and then popped the cap behind it as it hurled towards my face in pieces.

I just grind out a good divot with it as is, then tig weld it in with the music wire and regrind it flat and finish it up. They are woodpecker lips, hard.

Music wire is cheap. Ironically they sell tig wire that's specific for laying down a hardened surface and it's ridiculously expensive. I haven't tested the rockwell C of the music wire but it has to be at least 60 or so once tigged.

I took mine to the shop today to mess with it and fire a few in my testfire drum. I experienced my first chain fire. Pretty unpleasant but I'm glad that I was using my plastic percussion caps because the gun doesn't have a recoil shield so the cap blew off in pieces and hit me in the face. That...

I have the 1858 Remington Sherrifs model in brass frame. I absolutely love that gun and it smacks steel plates with authority. I use 30 grains of triple 7 and the recoil tells me it's a pretty hot load. If it ever hammers itself into the rear of the frame and loosens itself up, then I'll machine...

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It's up now I just listed: DIY Percussion Cap Cup Assembly Kit, for $24.95 via @amazon https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0CYNVFP1P/ref=cx_skuctr_share?smid=A35ZVF62EGN0OI

I own the Super Companion and love it. I would also get misfires because the first hammer drop would seat the cap. Finally solved the problem with my 3D printed caps. I use triple 7 3f in mine and get some pretty high velocities out of it. It's also one of the few guns that was designed for use...

It definitely is. It also hardens completely just from being heated and used as filler so there's no need to go back afterwards and harden the frizzen.

Ones that I designed and 3D printed.

I've hardened them before by grinding out the center portion where the flint will contact it, then I tig weld it in using music wire as filler rod. Then grind flush. It'll never wear again.

The key to getting the remington cylinder in and out is to do it when it's NOT at half cock. Just barely pull the hammer back enough that the anvil is out of the frame and the cylinder rolls in and out. I'm also really surprised to see grown men asking for a thread to be closed. It's as...

I have the same problem with my 1849 pocket model. Wedge isn't even fully through the barrel and it'll lock up the cylinder. Bad fitment.

You have the wedge too tight and it's pinching the cylinder.

I also have the brass framed 1858 Remington. I use 30 grains of triple 7 in it with no issues. I also started making the paper cartridges for it as well and they work great.

Everybody really should just start making their own caps. It's just too easy and cheap not to do it. And I know some have an aversion to plastic, but damn do these work fantastic, self clearing and no cap jams which says alot for my 1849 cap and ball. I'm still awaiting Amazon to verify that...

I'll post it once it becomes active on Amazon.