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Let's hear the rest of the story! Was it the ball moved forward or something else?

Check the hammer with a file to see if it's hard or soft. Do this on the back of the hammer where it won't show. You can tell by the feel if it's hard or soft. It it's soft you won't need to anneal it. Then do like Larry says. Use a flat faced punch 3/16" or so. If you're careful on the outside...

I like the color. What stain did you use? The rest of it looks good too by the way.

It's not all that hard to hacksaw and file a rear sight out of a piece of square stock. A machine shop might have a piece or you can order it on Amazon.

I've cast a bunch of balls and bullets over a setup like yours. I bought an electric pot and never went back to propane. Much easier to keep the temperature even.

Back in the 70's I watched a few fellows shooting trap at night under the lights with flintlocks. Pretty interesting.

I drilled the ramrod hole for my current project without it coming out the side or the bottom. It was a good day,

I put together one SMR. Quality of all the parts and the wood to metal fit was excellent. However, the stock just didn't fit me so I sold it. As mentioned, see if you can try one on for size since there is not any room to change the dimensions.

Do you know what brand of barrel it is? It looks like there are some longitudinal tool marks in the grooves. I agree scrubbing isn't going to cure the problem. Barrels in that shape will never come clean even though they might shoot ok. A 54 is a great caliber anyway. Or you might think about...

If you just take the barrel to a machinist he should be able to gauge the threads without doing a cast. Or you can try new nipples to see if they fit.

Looks great! Hope you can make meat with it!

On all the percussion rifles I've seen the hammer hits the nipple pretty hard. Battering doesn't seem to be much of a problem.

That's why I deleted my post after I re-read the thread title. No offence meant, just a too hasty post on my part.

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Walnut is an easy wood to work with as regards finishing. Just my opinion but I would sand in the wood with any poly or thinned Tru Oil until the pores are filled. Then give it a sanding with linseed oil down to 600 grit. After that, forget about the finish and just go shoot the thing for a few...

It's a don't ask, don't tell situation.

Good of you to let us know. I sold a rifle to a fellow who was listed as a possible scam in red letters since he was a new user. He was legit and all went well.

A few drops of any good oil chased around with compressed air will spread it into all the nooks and crannies. I know, it's hard to pack around an air compressor in the field.

A Copenhagen can is perfect if not hysterically correct.

Order a jar of Jarrows inletting black and be prepared to get most of it on yourself. That's what I've been doing the last couple of days. I doesn't look like it will take over about 1/8" to get the buttplate to fit. There are some good books on stock building that will help you out if you don't...