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Fair warning. Stainless and mild steel doesn't play well together. If you see the slightest sign of brown on the screw, pull them immediately. Steel is cathodic to Stainless, so the steel oxidizes in the presence of stainless. I'm working on cleaning up a multi million dollar mistake where...

Feed it a 495gr no excuses over 80ish grs of powder. I have one too and it is a tack driver.

There is a work around....but you would need to use a component from an unmentionable.....and it's not a 209.

I talked to buffalo a week ago. It'll be a couple months at best for them to get any in.

I have several thousands of dollars in hones and experience with them. Let me stress that hones are for finishing and removing tenths. Reams are for the step between drilling and honing or lapping. If you feel inclined to use a ball hone, first ask where you're going to find a 2 foot extension...

An adjustable ream is going to be a nightmare if you don't bore it first. The adjustables have straight flutes and will hang up on the rifling. A spiral ream would work. You'll want pressure oiling or lots of clean outs.

Order a few screws and nuts that are too long. Grind to fit and spin the nut off the chase the threads.

My ace has screws all the way down to 0-80tpi.

Looked at a 170" buck with no tag in my pocket.

I have nothing useful to add beyond, I am pure (play on words) jealous. I am a crane operator amongst other things and a lead scrounger.....and in the last few years I have amasses about 8 pounds. You're living right.

A thread file wouldn't be likely to have the root needed....but to be fair, I have never tried it.

I'd agree with sending some oil down the bore and spinning back onto the jag. Some spinning as you move it up and down has worked for me.

Not sure if my hawken had an odd hole tapped or williams sent the wrong screw...but I made a brass one work.

.....and I had a chance to dive into a favorite book.

I took my tent on my Idaho deer hunt last week. I pitched it with snow on the ground and it snowed all night. I took along this diesel heater that I picked up for $150. The heater, group 24 battery, a gallon of fuel and the duct fit in a tote. My tent stayed 70* and I used about 3/4 of a...

That's where the tap can shine. Anything with a constant radius can be trammed in on a rotary table. I learned by watching a 1911 front strap get cut.

A dirty trick I learned is that a tap with the tpi that matches your desired line pitch can be used to start any lines then finished by hand. If you have a mill, 3 sides can be ground off and the remaining relieved to cut as well.

I can't shoot the potential of my current barrel .....and I'm a pretty good shot. Not sure how I'd validate my results.

East sider here, welcome. October country is in Coeur d'Alene and BACO (Buffalo arms Co) is in Ponderay, ID....both close to spokane and both have a ton of stuff.

I just fit one of these a few weeks ago. The advice to drift is sound. If it does not want to go home, drift it out and wipe the bottom with a fine file which will decrease tension in the dovetail....but as said, do shoot it first.