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I'm with Deerstalker.

Kibler's SMR runs circles around the Woodsrunner for match shooting. The big round-faced lock is fast, very fast, but it's big and there's no comparison to the little lock. Have both and shot both in competition. Won quite a few matches this year with the SMR .45 and am currently building...

How many suggestions do you want? I already made several direct ones and gave you a wealth of basic information to decide what to do for yourself. You opted out of my first two suggestions and came up with Jim's product and I told you what I suspect about it (note the question mark in my post...

Hmmm, Waterlox? I think you'll like it. If it ends up too glossy you can always rub it back a little to dull the sheen.

Here's a neat one, it's even for sale! https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/threads/pine-flip-down-front-box-fs-last-one.187898/

I'm sure the folks that produce and market the Outers Foul Out system looked into it.

Any kind of oil. It isn't really necessary to quench the pan but you need to stop the heat once the proper annealing temperature is reached or it can boil off the moisture in the potato and start to anneal the frizzen face, or continue annealing the pan and toe past the desired spring temper...

Yes, use shellac as a base coat since the T&T is linseed oil and doesn't provide much of a moisture barrier. It's not a requirement to seal the stock, but it sure doesn't hurt and will likely add decades to the life of the wood if it is used outdoors a lot. Don't buy canned shellac, it's no...

Now that you're back, I gotta know: Is "TDM" your initials, or is it a play on the word "tedium"? You're a carver so I can see "tedium" being apt, as there is much of it in woodcarving and engraving.

What are you going to use for a topcoat? Shellac is probably the best wood sealer for controlling moisture ingress/egress from the stock and can be finished over with just about anything.

Stuff the new frizzen end in a potato up to the pan and heat the whole pan and toe to a deep purple quickly with an O/A torch, as soon as it gets purple, quench it in oil to stop the heat migrating to the frizzen face. If it sparks well as is, don't anneal the frizzen face at all.

Not poly for sure, it contains cobalt and zirconium dryers. Permalyn contains no heavy metal dryers but does have MEK, Benzene, and Xylene in it which are necessary carrier/solvents for polyurethane. Any tung oil or linseed oil based finish will work. Some are better than others. If you...

Just skip the poly junk (including Permalyn) and stick with T&T varnish oil. Don't thin it, not even for the first coat. Put a thin smear of it on a piece of glass or clear plastic packaging material and Don't even think about putting another coat on the stock until that smear is dry. This...

Poyurethane spar varnish.

I think you have it. Still maybe a little thick in the wrist but not by much. That extra thickness would come off the top between the comb and tang anyway if you felt it needed adjusting.

Iron rod all the way down the barrel with a rubber tip and rubber o-rings to prevent it grounding out. Evapo-Rust is easier and also works wonders to totally kill all rust so it doesn't keep going on the back side into the pits. The whole bore will be frosted after using either method, so...

Okay, then heat a poker orange hot in your coal forge and use that.

I vote for wrap it with iron baling wire and wave a propane torch along the wires for faux stripes, then I second #3.

I think JoAnne's has been going through bankruptcy procedures all year, the drill was unavailable to order for a long time. I found that three different Walmarts had three different colors of striped ticking that is an honest .018" when firmly compressed with a c-clamp micrometer. Perfect for...

Me too. Fancy wood and all the upgrades from 20 years ago. Unfortunately he had inlet the breech and tang (quite well, I might add) and didn't know to reshape the tail and thin the square, flared tang first, so I had to get creative with a carving design. I also had to set the barrel back and...