Search results

Whatever that white thing is in the cock jaws, get rid of it. It's dull beyond use and had a terrible angle to begin with. Get yourself some real gunflints which are chipped by hand from blades struck from chunks of real flint. You'll likely have to continue the "bevel down" orientation of...

I think it would be bothersome to try to prime a flintlock, especially from the main horn, without setting the cock to at least a halfcock position. On percussion guns I could see easily doing without the feature.

All fats have a saponification number, most have been determined by science people. Beeswax also has a saponification number, specific to sodium hydroxide. What this means is you can calculate how to make sodium stearate with no leftover lye using a certain amount of beeswax and certain amount...

Yep, no half cock. Not even a rebound feature like some back-action locks have. The rear trigger bar in #7761 is what's keeping the lock from cocking unset. I can see from the front trigger position relative to the plate that the front trigger bar isn't what's holding up the works, if it...

If it won't hold full cock until the trigger is set, the trigger mainspring is overtraveling. The notch it engages in the rear trigger can be relieved some until it doesn't hold the rear trigger bar against the sear, or a stop screw or shim can be added to the trigger plate so the mainspring...

That really did turn out well.

Best answer yet. I seem to put more dings in stocks and scratches on metal in the last few stages of finishing a rifle than I do in a year of field use. Consider it "distressing", and maybe give the dent a few "friends" and darken it a little so it doesn't look lonely or fresh.

You can always degrease, hit it with the brown again, then boil and card again with degreased steel wool. Flood with WD-40 or an overnight soak in kerosene will help set the blueing. Repeat the rusting, boiling, and carding until it is even all over. This process is called "hot water bluing"...

Yes it will blue up if you degrease it first. That's how you deal with rust spots on a blued gun.

I would also like to thank all the professional gentlemen who presented the science and their practical experience with lock springs. It may boil down to ease of manufacturing for the OP. It is difficult to accurately heat and forge even a small part with an O/A torch without burning carbon...

Mark Lee Express Brown.

Those patches look like they were loaded dry. Lightly saturate them with spit or Hoppes #9+ Black Powder Solvent and Patch Lube if you want to shoot all day and not have to wipe between shots. A carbon ring tends to build just above where the ball seats when using water-based lubes and it...

Tail up is hands-down more accurate in a smoothbore, contrary to intuition. Don't ask me why, it just is. No idea how it will work in a rifled bore but I would think a wad of tow between ball and powder would be a big help since the paper alone won't be thick enough to seal the ball in the...

The difference between flint chert and all other chert is flint chert is formed specifically in chalk instead of limestone.

Any of the Balcones chert is suitable, I use everything from Georgetown flint to Pedernales rootbeer chert to Guadalupe and Llano river gravel cobbles, particularly amoebas. I use thin flakes from the rough bifacing operation or dedicated blade cores to strike off blades for making gunflints...

It IS a cool project. While we're arguing statutes, it pays to point out two things: this is not a "firearm", nor an "antique firearm, nor modern replica therof....it is a "cane gun" which is clearly defined as an "any other weapon", muzzleloading or not. Muzzleloading machine guns would not...

Kibler lock, not a Kibler rifle. Mark Lee Express Brown per instructions and one soak in 140⁰F distilled water.

I just got a nastygram for mentioning fertilizer in a Pyrodex thread. Thanks for the nice words, fellas, but I'm done with the stupidity of some things here. At least I outlasted Mr. EVIL! BYE.

Sore neck, too. A little preview. I know I should round over the leaves more, but then I'd have to rework some of the other panels to match, so probably will just leave them as they are. One coat of blushed ferric nitrate/water solution to raise the grain, sanded back and wetted with...

Then get a longer flint.