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I’m not a wiper….Until my sense of feel tells me the next load may not make it down to the charge……Depending on the particular rifle/load, this can vary from 10-20 shots for me. Temperature/humidity can cause the number of shots to vary.

I use my sights for anything beyond spitting distance…

The approach I used about 40years ago on a Hawken was to use a standard sized, water dampened, cotton rope(approximately 1/2” diameter) spiraled(wrapped) down the sanded, but unfinished hickory ramrod. I then carefully applied heat from a propane torch to slightly and evenly char the exposed...

+1…#7 Fuller flint fits perfectly…very close to a Queen Anne

My older Jack Garner Fowler and a few other Garner ML’s I have seen we’re signed as shown below. Not sure about the lock brand.

I rarely apply a stain to a nice walnut stock. The appearance and figure of the stock can be influenced by the degree that the grain is filled, how the grain is filled(added filler or oil), and most importantly, the amount of luster(rubbed/dull-shiny) that is created with the particular oil...

I do not disassemble my locks. When cleaning the rifle, I will remove the lock from the rifle and clean/lubricate as necessary. The mechanisms of the lock are sufficiently exposed to enable thorough cleaning lubrication. I will check periodically to make sure lock screws have not loosened.

7 1/2’s……

I think it’s important to keep in mind that when shooting the low BC LRB’s, that muzzle velocity differences, important for accuracy testing, will diminish rapidly as the range exceeds 50 yards. This will be the case whether MV is manage by the brand of powder or the charge weight. A 300FPS...

I haven’t used Windex that much for my muzzleloaders but have used it extensively for the last few decades with my BPCR(Sharps) rifles. I prefer the Vinegar Windex, cit 50:50 with water. A few swabs followed by some IPA and/or water, then dried and lubed cleans/removes the acidic residues and...

I have been using a Fuller #7 for the last few years in my Colonial.. Size runs 7/8” wide. x 1” long. Works very well. Note; no priming in pan(photo)

Agree with just about everything has been said about the attributes of the Kibler……. The end results are about as good as any of the “high end” rifles I own in terms of accuracy, reliability of components, and ergonomics(for me). My 50/58 cal Colonial:

I own and shoot flintlocks( modern) that are drilled, internally coned(no liner), and lined with most all the usual suspects as to design. I have experienced no difference in accuracy(<2MOA @ 50 yards), or perceived speed of ignition. IMO, the former and non-stainless/well blended liners look...

I have hunted them with calibers ranging from 45-58. They all have worked well at my typical woodland/whitetail ranges. If I had to pick just one… I would go likely with my 50cal which I have hunted with the most over the past five decades.

I’m a Hoppes 9 man myself…..

At my muzzleloading hunting distances and woodland settings, particularly at dawn and dusk, I prefer open sights. However, much like peep sights, the style of the sight can make a big difference. My muzzleloaders have a shallow V-notch rear and a highly visible bright brass blade front sight...

I’m content with my flintlock’s priming method/set-up when I personally can’t detect(perceive a difference in ignition time from shot to shot with the same rifle, or between different rifles. Looking for consistency, and pay attention to sparking and flash-hole size/orientation. I believe...

Do you use lead or leather to support your flint in the jaws? With my Kibler Colonial the flints have to be tightened quite a bit. I attribute this to the heavier weight/force of the hammer spring on the Kibler lock compared to my other locks. I also will make sure the flint is sized to make...

While my strong preference is to thoroughly clean my rifles at the end of the day after shooting, I have been in “quick clean” situations with my flintlocks numerous times over the past decades. Chemistry IS the answer. The most effective means I’ve found that takes less then a few minutes, and...

1970’s CVA Mountain Rifle. Built my first flintlock(version) from a kit back then.