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Do you have any bullets now? If so you could drop one in the chamber and shove it foreward with a short starter. If it fits the throat you're good. If it's too big to go, you'll need to size it. Push it out with a ramrod and see if you have any rifling marks. Doing this with several different...

Denim works fine if it's the right thickness. As mentioned, no stretch jeans. I have been using Brownell's twill cleaning patches for years now. They're about .012" thick and work great. Cheap and pre-cut in various sizes. I don't know if the "new" Brownells sells them any more or not.

I had a 50 cal LRH carbine barrel on a Renegade, and saw pretty much the same thing. It would shoot balls pretty well, certain;y good enough for normal use and would shoot conicals (in this case, the RCBS 500 S&W bullets) extremely well. We were loading 50 gr of powder under a ball for kids to...

I have that L&R lock in my Dixie squirrel rifle. The original lock was worn out beyond economical repair. I fought with the L&R for several years off and on before I finally decided to fix it. That involved getting another cock for it with the swan neck instead of the double one it comes with...

Only if it needs it. A few do. But usually it just needs to be lapped smooth and polished.

I have consistently found better accuracy by making the chambers as big as the barrel's groove diameter and radiusing the mouth. Also a good polished forcing cone is a big improvement as well.

Check out Jeff Tanner's ball moulds. He can make you any size you like, the quality is top notch and prices not too bad. Way nicer than the ones Pedersoli makes. He also sells different thickness of patching. https://www.ballmoulds.com/

This is getting interesting. 3/4" across the flats and that big caliber with round bottom rifling is definitely not something sold by Dixie. My Dixie 32 has a 13/16" barrel. But everything else looks like a Dixie squirrel rifle. If it has been rebarreled at some point how did they get the...

It's not glazed or polished. Not terribly accurate in rifles but I use a lot of it in shotguns. It is a mixture of sizes.

That was published quite a few years ago, shown to be fake but it is still a fun story.

After trying Evaporust on some motorcycle parts, I have been wondering how well that would work in a gun barrel. Anybody here try it before? It sure gets steel clean and I can't find any dimensional change.

My own Cherokee shoots balls great with 60 grains 3F, as small as that barrel is it seems like plenty. I did finally figure out that the shallow rifling likes the balls to be bigger. Never worked all that great with .440 but came alive with .445.

If you used them unlubed and sized down enough so they fit with the paper on, I don't see why it wouldn't work. Lube the paper of course but lube on the bullet would encourage the paper to stick.

If you wanted to spend a lot of money, Pedersoli has several very nice small caliber target pistols. Personally I have been looking for a Hege Sieber that Beeman imported for years. The only ones I've found happened when I didn't have the money to spend.

That P-H version of the mold has pretty thick skirts. You should be getting good bump up but probably not. I'd try increasing the powder charge 5 grains at a time and see if you get to a point where it starts working. If you can turn a new base pin you might try a bigger one to make the skirt...

Mine shoots best with a patched ball, but naked ball and wads are not a whole lot different. Even easier are paper cartridges for field use, only one thing to carry.

I have a big one on the side of our cabin that anybody can have if they want to come and get it, but you gotta take the bees too.

15/16" or 1 inch?

Or an 8 point socket...

It's no renaissance. It's just the market's reaction to no ammunition being available to buy coupled with longer hunting seasons. The same reason so many people are discovering flintlocks - you can't get caps but you can get rocks and keep on shooting.