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Your lucky to live in such a beautiful area. I miss the mountains out there.

Taps do vary in length between manufacturers. I mostly use taps made by Irwin and they have always been long enough. No special reason for the brand, that's just what my local Fleet Farm store carries. But they are cheep and will break easily if you push them too far.

Using the bondo method works great. Even a hair dryer would work. You only need enough heat for it to release and pop it off. You don't want to use a torch and get it so hot that it melts the bondo. On flat parts, I just use a cheap hot glue gun.

I'm too embarrassed to even post any of my stuff now. :wink: Awesome job!

It is to my understanding that Chambers is the sole producer of Siler locks. Give them a call.

I'd like to see some results of someone that "steamed" their barrel and parts as opposed to boiling them. I'm very interested in trying out that process. :hmm: thanks

L&R makes a T/C replacement lock. It's not a direct R&R lock as it has the traditional internal components. You'll need to do a little mortising work. Before you go ripping the lock out, Is the flint properly knapped, installed properly, or try a different one?

Rifles of Colonial America Vol. 1 & 2 are good books to study relief carving. They are full of detailed pics of actual rifles from various schools.

Steam blue instead of boiling. That's very interesting and seems like an easier way instead of boiling. I read the instructions. Has anyone tried this? My concern is does the color come out uniformly when hanging the barrel vertically. :hmm:

I'd be happy with a pair of 36s. :grin: :grin: :grin:

Glad to hear you got it off without ruining the stock. :thumbsup: I was going to suggest using a gear puller with the arms turned around next. Good thing you didn't need to go to that extreme. :wink:

Not meant to be removed? Wow ! I've had and refinished several T/Cs in the past and never had trouble removing the patch box. The two screws are all that holds it in. You must simply got a tight fit from swelling. I can't imagine someone gluing it in. But I've seen stranger things done.:hmm:

Try a paint can opener. You might need a small block of wood to raise it up inside an catch the inner lip of the plate. Work it around inside. It should pop right out.

Say now, that looks alot like my bench. Everything right where I left it :wink:

I just buy another set of standard flat screw drivers and grind them down to specifically fit certain screws ( tang, lock, etc.) and mark them with colored electrical tape. A bit cheaper way and they fit perfectly. :wink:

Wahkon Bay. I found in most cases that stuff will give you a more of red brown color than a plum brown if that's what you desire.

My Bad :idunno:

Does Tip Curtis have a web site to order from?

I couldn't agree more. Gotta have the brass box and curl. That's what drew me to the Kentucky rifles in the first place. If I'm gonna spend the time and money building one, Might as well make it worth it. (just my 2 cents :wink: )

I'm in the middle of building 2 Isaac Haines (38" Lancaster) component sets from chambers that I just received last month. The inletting is slightly under but not by much. I know some have complained about it being sloppy or over inletted in the past. I assume they fixed that problem or maybe...