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This should not be this hard to figure out but for some reason it is stumping me. In the unset position the rear trigger bar is higher than the front trigger bar. But it is spring loaded. So you want your sear bar just barely touching the unset rear trigger bar and when it is set and used it...

I thought it was the opposite. The closer the sear bar to the trigger pivot the less pressure it takes.

It's a Davis true double set. The type that you can use the front without setting the to. Setting here looking at it, it looks like if you do use just the front it will have a long pull until it clears the rear trigger bar.

I've got a rifle that I am going to convert over to set triggers. I kinda screwed up on the first single trigger I put on it and placed it too far forward so the trigger pull was too heavy. On a double set trigger do you want the sear bar right in the "X" where the front and rear flats come...

Thanks all.

Anyone know of someone that does stamping or graving on a lock plate? I was needing a fleur de lis and A. TVLLE. I wrote to some gravers and they told me it should be stamped in. I found a A.TVLLE stamp at TOTW but it was missing the fleur di lis. Thanks for any help.

Thanks. I made the ax out of an old shingle ax I found that actually had a square end to start with. Most I've seen had an octagon. The knife is made of 1075/80 steel. The pewter bolster is the one that kept giving me problems on a few posts back.

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+1 on what Jethro said. I was at an event and noticed a very slight hump and set up on it. The next day there was an inch of standing water in front and behind me but underneath was dry.

I couldn't find my bee's wax but the graphite and heating with a heat gun worked. Thanks all.

I had a private message that said to use graphite on the contact surfaces. I'll try both.

Thanks. It's on a piece kinda like yours, blade in an antler handle. The space is always next to the antler and the cardboard formed band around it. It doesn't want to form flat next to the antler.

Has anyone tried using some type of flux on the surface when pouring a pewter bolster? I keep getting spaces and pockets. Doesn't seem to want to flow right. I know I've got it hot enough.

Believe it or not I got tetanus in my 20's from a splinter that I dug out with a small knife blade that was cleaned with alcohal first. Seems the bacteria was on the wood not the blade. Not something to play around with. 3 days on IVs after my hand was cut back open by the Doc.

I noticed that on some of the cheap hawks(made in india I think)they say on some ads that they have a higher carbon bit forged welded into it and others say nothing about it. The hawks look identical but it makes me wonder if they are all just a simple fold weld.

I like your hawk. Were did you get it?

I finished the one on the bottom recently. I wiskered with 220 then did a really light 400. This piece turned out really smooth. I did one a while back that was really pitty like tiny pin holes. Could not seem to get it as smooth for some reason.[/URL][/img]

Is there any place that sells an inletted stock for a 44" swamped colerain barrel? I've got a rifle that I like all the hardware on but was wanting to try to make a sliding patchbox instead of the metal one it has.

I heard a while ago it might be reprinted. Must have been wrong.

Had the same problem with mine when I bought it. Mine was almost .030 oval. The guy said they were getting alot of returns when sent mine back.