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Col. Batguano, I have not done the undercuts etc. on my carving to date, took a couple few years off from building (focused on "self learning" to engrave lettering and drawing original art etc) as I was rushing through the processes and found myself making the same architectural mistakes on...

As soon as it is fully inlet (and necessary pins) with the barrel, lock, trigger, guard, butt plate, touch hole, and sights, it gets sighted in at 13yds from the bench and then some.

Thanks felt, gotta keep pluggin away, That rifle was built in about '07. You oughta hide that shotgun away, with the current state of things it is far too valuable to show around, back in the twenties and thirties you could find the old muzzle loaders heavily inlay-ed with coin silver tossed in...

Thanks for that, that little exercise didn't go as planned, but being it was "carved in stone" so to speak, I was committed to following through with it. That was my first "unsupervised" build (second ever) and there were many mistakes made while getting it finished. Ended up selling it out from...

Nosecap would be an obvious choice due to the rounded form, the heel return on the butt plate (again due to semi rounded shape) both of these locations would allow for the most retained texture on the chosen material, and instead of inlaying it into the cheek area like a hunters star you could...

You may be onto something...................................

Over complicated or not, it is the longest standing ignition system to date and for good reason, it works. Overthinking it will just give you a headache.

No worries, glad to help, if you've got a smith close and he'll let you look over his shoulder then that would be the ideal situation, lots can be learned that way. Good Luck.

here is a link to the press I referenced earlier.

Correct, Interesting about L&R, I was there several days ago.

Used to be you could purchase a cock press from TOTW, I'm not seeing it now though? Keep the screw cinched up, contact the lockmaker with your concerns in a nicely worded e-mail, if it starts to flop about fore and aft then it is a problem.

I'd put a turn screw to the cock screw and see if that gains you any relief, Just don't get all gorilla ham handed with it as the screw has a small diameter shaft and fine threads therefore it is not designed to push the cock onto the tumbler shaft, those cocks should be a press fit and not work...

Overall quality, longevity, and resale ability.

The same way you make the wire tools. Sharpening the scrapers is a matter of rolling a fine wire edge along the scraper edge with a hardened rod, that wire edge then cuts/shaves the wood. The little yellow scrapers are what I use to worry in my inlays, model my carvings and smooth the backgrounds

Thing is, the styles changed as we went from short large bore Jaegers to long slim smaller bore Longrifles, at the time of this transition many materials would have been scarce to the gunsmiths, as they were closer to the edge of civilization, and thus eliminated for convenience sake, they were...

Wire was more prevalent in Europe, not a lot (if any) of examples of it in the colonies, even as we got away from the golden age era of nice carving and engraving and transitioned into the cap locks, the inlay work was bulk coin silver pieces or brass and no or not a lot of wire work, wire is...

A good case hardening would work and is a correct fix also. Not talking about Kasenite here, I'm talking about a charcoal/bone mixture packed tightly around the part and soaked at temp before quenching and drawing back to the correct temper. It's all about how much effort your wanting to put...

Today we call that a cap lock.

In my case it's the result of fat fingers