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I was just at Bass Pro. They had Remington #11 caps for 14.00 per 100. I said no way.

I did, but I don’t want to interrupt the comraderee!

Ahh, that was the first post! I started the thread!

Well this has been a very confusing thread! Thanks everyone for the responses, it’s appreciated but it’s left me more confused than before! But I’ll try wording it different to see if I can get this figured out. Assuming my arbor is bottoming out, and my butt joints are butting up perfectly and...

Yeah what Eric said. Laurel Mountain Forge is great and inexpensive and easy to use. Should take no more than two three days depending on the weather.

Didn’t Pietta make a 36 cal. six shot version of the 1862 pocket model at one time?

I would take a piece of denim or rough cloth and soak it with hot water and scrub the barrel a bit, rinse it off, wipe it down and hang it up again. Without a browning solution you could be spending a week or two rusting, scrubbing and hanging several times. Probably should let it hang for a few...

Yeah that’s what I’ve been doing. I used a split washer that was too large and filed it down then put a dab of jb weld on the front of the arbor to hold the washer on. It was still a hair too short so I put a dab of jb weld on again and let it dry and flat filed it until the butt joint fit was...

Mostly just files and stones! And a drill press! So when I get the arbor touching the back of the arbor hole the wedge won’t go in. Also when you say start zeroing your number how is that done? Are you shimming behind the cylinder? I’m not sure if I’m understanding the process at this point. I...

Also by shims im talking about the end of the arbor bottoming out in the arbor hole under the barrel.

Right now the lug and frame are just barely contacting each other. Maybe .001 shim would get them where they wouldn’t rub against one another.

I’m with you. I’m new to black powder and the terminology is above me for the most part, but once I understand the concept I can generally fix the problem. I started working with metal with my dad when I was five, deburring parts while watching Gilligans Island and other shows of that time...

Ok I checked it at halfcock with cylinder pushed back and I measured .015. I drove the wedge in a bit more and got around .013. Now the question becomes how do I tighten it up a bit and is it really necessary? I haven’t shot it yet and just installed an action shield and decided to check the gap...

Just curious about what the gap should be. My Uberti 1862 pocket police is at around 8 to 9 thousandths. That’s with the arbor properly shimmed to length because of course it was too short! And that is measured with hammer down on a fully assembled revolver.

Thank You! Much appreciated! Really a nice kit, but more work than I expected, but I’m glad it kept me busy!

I finished up my kit about a week ago. I’m happy with the results, but still haven’t shot it yet! I must say the stock was a mess when I received it! The motrices were both different shaped and didn’t line up by a long shot! The cheek piece was huge! It came all the way down to the bottom of the...

Yeah I think your cheek piece could be a bit thinner, maybe a 1/4” or so in height. Also clean up around the cheek piece. You will like the look a bit better if that is all smoothed up especially when it’s stained. I used a rasp on my stock all the way down to the metal. Then I changed to...

Danglers is alcohol based.

The chemicals used for the priming compound are easy to source. Also check out AardvarkReloading.com. They have the formulas and sources for the stuff you need to reload primers. You will need to purchase the dies to punch out the caps from soda or beer cans.