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Not to worry, a lot of the fouling will go down the barrel. If you pack the innards with hi temp bearing grease it will keep the fouling in the frame under control. An action shield helps a remarkable amount as well.

You have it pretty well nailed. Arbor is corrected and the lower frame makes good solid contact at the lower pins then you have a good setup. You can set the barrel/cylinder gap after the arbor is corrected several ways just depends on preference. I've done it by removing material from the...

Now all ya gotta do is get the gap down to .002 and you're good to go. With that set up you have the same gun every time it's put back together.

Once again if it moved or closed the gap it;s real good guess the arbor is still short. Try shimming the arbor and see if anything changes.

Anyone here ever try shooting from the back of a moving horse? I tried it my misspent youth. It was a hazard to everything in the area except the intended target. On top of that the horse is another factor, if the horse you're shooting from is a jughead it makes things even more interesting. Yes...

And on top of everything else the arbor is still short. With a properly fitted arbor that barrel/cylinder gap should not have changed.

I wonder if the wedge is hitting the retainer screw? Maybe try taking out the retainer screw and tapping the wedge in and see if the barrel/cylinder gap changes.

After reading some of the earlier posts I realized some things should be answered... forgive me if these are already answered. Wedge fit should be a firm fit with a plastic or non marring hammer tapped in until it stops, of course the arbor length should be fixed. Barrel/cylinder gap ideally...

If you're interested in getting the new Walker tuned and set up feel free to PM me.

I get amazed at how many folks seem to think 100 yards is equivalent to a half a mile. It's 300 feet. I've personally dropped jackrabbits at 130 yards with a pistol. Not a big deal.

I had one briefly, had an 18 inch barrel that was not installed properly. Fixed the problem and promptly sold it... hate getting sprayed with cap fragments.

The hole for the lock pin should be at 12 o'clock in the junction between the frame and the arbor. Not sure what the purpose of the hole in the upper hammer slot is for.

I don't think it was Bill Cody but Bill Hickok that emptied his revolvers, chain fires seem to come from either end of the cylinder in my experience. There's as many opinions on this as there are guns out there. A good seal on both ends will prevent it from happening. In my part of the country...

Looks like a replica Remington spring could be made to work.

That is exactly what Uberti tried as well as putting a somewhat stout spring on the end of the arbor, neither attempt worked. Best solution so far is bed the arbor and be done with it. If there's a better solution I'm all ears.

Or made him royally mad.

Nope, wrong again. Uberti's fix does not work no matter how hard you dig in your heels and refuse to believe it. You might get away with it for a while but in the long run it's gonna catch up. As many of these things that have come across my bench beaten half to death shows Uberti hasn't fixed...

It's made by ASM. Other than the short arbor and the poorly fitted nipples it's been a good solid pistol. Of course the short arbor issue required some major work to get it back on track. It did stretch the frame to the point you couldn't keep the wedge in. It literally tried to fold the wedge...

Used to happen on my Walker, found the holes were bored oversized with very shallow threads. After getting hit in the face by an air borne nipple I re threaded the holes for T/C hot shot nipples and they've been there ever since.

For those of you who may interested on fit of caps. About halfway down the nipple .174 diameter gives a good firm fit on CCI caps. .166 is a bit too loose. Never measured the opening so can't help there.