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Guys, We've all experienced some frustration with cell phone text message "auto-spell" corrections. Ex; "Give the kids a hug." became-- "Give the kids a hit." Amusing huh?-----Unless Child Protective Services gets involved! But the other day was a new one for me. I was texting a buddy about...

Excellent job with your transition zones! (upper to lower fore stock, lock plate panel to wrist etc.)

their parts kits are great, and I double ditto not getting the lock inlet. Depending on what you're building, you may want to deepen the barrel channel and thin the web, because most of their webs are 1/4", which is too thick for my tastes. For some guns like Hawkens and other half stocks...

Fred passed April 12 at age 91. He was a regular here and did wonderful work, particularly with his builds of Bucks County guns.

You have several options in addition to the above ones. Is your RR a little bit warped or bent? Sometimes they go in easily one way but not another. Assuming that's not the issue, a little bit of chamfering of the RR tip often solves the issue if the rod is hanging up on the bolt going in to...

It's really quite surprising to me that you don't feel the bump from PB lid latch, or round head screws coming through the butt plate when you're shooting the gun, (like a piece of gravel in your shoe) but you just don't.

When doing rust blueing, in order to get best results I need to heat up the parts in a low humidity environment first. When they're warm, THEN introduce them to the high humidity session, and card afterwards. That keeps the moisture from condensing on the parts (as stated previously). Repeat...

When you're neutralizing, it doesn't hurt to do it a few times. Ammonia, and baking soda paste followed with a water wash are the most common ways to do it.

Don't be too frustrated. Unless you're hanging it in a high humidity area like a shower or steam box, in most places, this time of year the humidity in your house might be only about 20%. (It is in mine.) Just give it a little more time than it might require in the summer months.

You could start with a thicker piece of brass like 1/8" and just file the curve you want in to it, removing the middle. I did that with the end piece on a domed PB lid. Much easier. With homogeneous material like brass for the lid, and brass for the end plate, it's pretty it hard to see...

You should wait on doing your drilling (of the metal tabs) for pinning until just after the stock is dyed, or even finished. Those holes need to be cleaned up from varnish that gets in there after the gun is finished anyway. The reason for this is the stock dimensions are going to swell...

The primary active ingredient in carburetor cleaner is acetone. It's cheaper by the gallon than it is by the spray can.

There always has to be something that gets in between a rock and a hard place. :rolleyes:

Adjustable sights are ALL fixed sights once you stop adjusting them.

Wonderful work! It embodies all the critical elements. Aspiration, followed by inspiration, fueled with dedication, oiled with perspiration.

With side plates you're really better off making your own. The reason being, is that every gun's architecture is slightly different in the 3 main points you're concerned with; the location / relationship of the 2 stock bolt holes, how the plate orients toward the lower fore end, and how the...

I've never done a domed rivet before. Mine have always been flush. Domed sounds a lot harder. to get good results. I would think you have to pre=shape the head to match the convex surface of the muzzle cap for one thing. If you try to bend the edges over while in place you risk denting in...

The proof in the pudding is always in how it fits. Do the top and bottom lines of the fore stock continue straight through the muzzle cap, or, do they take something of a bend at the junction? On my most recent build I wound up making 3 muzzle caps before I was satisfied with the results. Are...

Oops. You're right! My mistake. The correct numbers are; 0.08", 0.10" and 0.12" Sorry if it caused confusion.

Right you all are, but modern guns are made with modern steels. Many of out ML'ing barrels are 12L14 steel, which isn't as tough. That said, a cut-in barrel lug or sight is going to have most of that cut away steel replaced by the lug base, so much of what is lost is then replaced. If you...