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I also enjoy casting my own round balls just as I did making my own cedar arrows. It adds to the satisfaction of the hunt knowing you killed something with something you made. l started casting my own round balls since I was 13 years old. Lately though, I ran into a problem casting with a new...

This is what I use at the range or home for loading or cleaning long guns. It holds the gun upright freeing up both hands. It's not a stand but more of a brace. Woks fine on tailgates too.

Good looking box. One of these days I'm going to build one. For now I have three different plastic tool boxes. One for my cap and ball revolver, one for my modern centerfire guns and one for my musket and muzzleloading rifles. I have to make sure I take the right one to the range though.

OK, now it's starting to make sense. Heavier powder charge and bullet more recoil and possible movement of cylinder, barrel etc. Gotcha, and since my revolver has held up all these years , in my case it's not a big concern.

Average! I'll have you know I've been known as an under achiever all my life. If all these revolvers have the short arbor, and it seems worse with some than others. Do the newer revolvers have a tendency to be worse?

Well everything seems to line up and fit together fine. I've fired close to 2000 rounds through it and the cylinder forcing cone gap is still square, wedge has no play in it and barrel doesn't move. I use a wooden mallet to remove and reinstall wedge and it seems to fit together as good as ever...

My 1978 London model Uberti 1851 doesn't have any of the arbor issues. When did this become a problem, or am I one of the lucky ones?

On my Uberti Navy I replaced the front sight with a taller piece of brass rod. I filed to POA at 25. To correct the windage I bought another hammer and widened the notch in direction needed. The extra hammer was in case I screwed up.

I had the same kit gun, except flintlock. I was 13 at the time and ordered it from an ad in the back of Outdoor Life magazine. Gave many an armadillo hell with that gun. It's what got me started in muzzleloaders. That was about 55 years ago.

I Made paper cartridges following this same video for my 20 gage trade gun. I used .570 balls and 80 grains 2f powder. Off hand at 30 yards. I think it worked pretty good

I had one that looked just like that one, except it was flintlock. Mine was a CVA kit and called a Colonial pistol.

My first bet would be Dixie Gun Works. They have quite an inventory of Percussion revolver parts. It's been a while sense I ordered anything from them, but they sold complete screw sets for revolvers and internal parts as well.

It's a great little ax. Great for sharpening wooden stakes and splitting kindling. Used mostly on small game. Used for removing feet and head from squirrels, no more dulling my pocket knife on cutting bones.

Here is a couple.

Anything legally killed with a smoothbore muzzleloader or a longbow, is a trophy in my book. Congratulations.

In my older lanterns I used a mason jar lid with a wood screw through lid into candle. I upgraded to a 3/4" wooden base drilled out to take a glass candle holder. It's not period correct but is a lot more stable and holds candle tight. The entire base is removeable.

True, a candle to tall will overheat the top of lantern but also give off less light. You want the flame visible through all 4 windows.

On this lantern, yes hole punched inward. Other lanterns holes drilled. I haven't noticed any difference between the two. As far as fire hazard, I agree, never leave any open flame unattended.

Yes built free hand. Saw a picture and used it as a guide. Made about a dozen of them and gave most of them to family. No two are exactly alike. They are handy when the lights go out.

I have a 1/4" hole drilled in 4 corners of bottom for added draft. Also a 1/8" spacer under each corner to rase bottom above flat surfaces. Before I did these mods, the flame would dim when I closed the door. Works fine now.