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Kinda going to extremes. Very simple.....dry firing can be a valuable training aid and the amount of value will vary from one individual to another. We are allowed to be different.

Lol! Yep. They set the target at 10 feet and shoot as fast as they can pull the trigger!

I do compete with a cap and ball '58 Remington. I keep an old replica on the table next to me while watching TV with the nipples removed. I have no problem with flinching or recoil and as I'm not doing timed shooting, recovering from recoil is not relevant. Proper trigger pull, follow through...

Sounds like barrels/guns need to be packed in Sch. 40 PVC pipes with end caps glued on that would require a pipe cutter or saw to open them.

I think I'd just clean it and shoot it and skip steps 1 through 6 if you are happy with it.

But nobody should have to go through that on a new purchase.

Very important! You don't know exactly what is in there. Evidently stuck pretty good. I would not take a chance on using a ball puller, putting a hole through the ball or whatever and ruining your chance of success with a grease gun. Then you may have to pull the breech plug which you rather not...

I pack my guns with Mobil 1 grease so I don't have to disassemble often but when I do it appears the grease on the hardware prevents galling on the stainless gun. I still use neever seize on the nipples after each outing.

Now you are talking about changing the basic design of the gun. I had an unmentionable peacemaker tuned by Cimmeron that had a very light hand coil spring installed and had problems with the cylinder over rotating until I replaced the spring which demonstrates the need for the braking action.

I have the Pietta S/S '58 Rem. target model along with a Uberti and Dart blued guns. I use the stainless for competition and enjoy the easy and quick clean up. I had the cylinder chambers reamed out to give the ball a tighter fit in the barrel. It shoots better than me offhand and has held up...

Yes! Plain and simple good advice.

It is very simple. Securely anchor the barrel assembly to the frame at both the lug area and the arbor using the wedge to apply the pressure to hold them tightly together. This gives you a stable, strong, consistent shooting platform with no movement between the barrel and frame. Adding shims...

Slot may be slightly burred or expanded and only wants to travel in its own channel. My Walker was a little tight in that respect also. I just worked it a bit and it slides fine now at any angle. But I am no expert. Can only say what has worked for me.

Generally a Uberti problem but I'd say check it yourself. This will probably get some criticism but it works for me. Remove the barrel and cylinder. With the barrel lug swung out to the side insert the arbor till it bottoms out and swing it over to the barrel lug. If when you swing it over it...

No, it is also a modern production gun. I don't think it even attempted to be a accurate reproduction.

You are correct. Made by Classic arms as kits to represent boot pistols in general.

Photos of another boot pistol.

I tried that one day at the range when I didn't bring enough of my ticking patches. Accuracy fell way off.

My range recently started putting out steel and already the inconsiderate are ruining it for everybody by shooting green tip and other destructive ammo.

I'll shoot off of a stand every now and then to make sure the gun (guns) is still grouping good. I've got them all dialed in to what loads, patching, and lubes they like. I shoot off hand so not looking for cloverleafs, just MOA's of death. On paper....I don't hunt. Or shooting things like water...