Search results

Would you plan on fitting a scope to the rifle? That would be interesting and something I’ve thought on before

Do you know the twist rate of the rifling?

After looking at some original American rifles it seems several of them have such deep cut rifling that they appear hexagonal. Some of them almost look more hex shaped than the bore of a whitworth.

As I understand it this book it hard to come by now. I am interested if anyone has a copy they could part with.

Very interesting. I’ve heard of a couple of accounts where original rifles were bedded in the manner you described. Do you have any pictures of the bedding?

I’m glad this topic came up. I was aware tightness of barrel bands can affect accuracy but never thought of it in that way.

Interesting, does this help with accuracy? My first thought would’ve been that leaving them loose would allow barrel movement thus decreasing accuracy, then again I can see how cranking them down tight could put stress on the barrel also decreasing accuracy.

Sounds like solid advice. Can you elaborate on what you mean by leaving space in the barrel band for expansion. That’s the first I’ve heard of that. Is it for heat expansion or maybe shrinking and swelling of the wood over time?

Yeah I normally wouldn’t consider glass bedding on a ML, but since it came bedded I figured why not.

PM sent

Has anyone here ever bedded a two or three band enfield style military rifle? If so how did you do it? I plan on using glass bedding since the rifle came from the factory with bedding in the breech area. I think I am going to skim bed over the old bedding since it’s chipping and cracking in...

Me too!

I’m contemplating doing weld build up on the end and refitting it that way it looks “right” and is a permanent fix

Yep, removing the barrel after shooting is usually pretty difficult, and it gets harder the more you shoot.

That’s an idea right there. I hear he does great work.

I read some posts on here before about fixing short arbor issues. I’ll see if I can find it.

Yes initially the frame would engage fine and everything looked good, but I’m not worried as much about warping or bending the frame in to close the cylinder gap. I’m more worried about the long term consequences of shooting hot loads with a short arbor.

I haven’t thought about checking ID, and I’m not sure what would be a good way to do that. I do know that the arbor is short either way and doesn’t reach all the way to the bottom of the arbor hole based on the measurements I took. From what I see my wedge looks fine. Just the bluing...

Yeah lead maybe not the best. I may pull it and make another from something harder.

I have just one shim I made of lead. I’m hoping that will help. Not sure how easy it would be to tighten the arbor but I’ll have to look into that.