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DeX Glenn

32 Cal.
Joined
Nov 28, 2009
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Just got the kit :thumbsup: 1-66 twist Think I might tint the barrel plum .Any suggestions? Thanks :thumbsup:
 
Forgive me but I don't know exactly what your making. Perhaps a bit more of a description could be made?

If by tinting the barrel "plum" I'm betting your talking about Birchwood Casey Plum Brown?

This is a heat activated browning solution and I use it for small, easily heated parts.
I've had mixed results using it on something large like a barrel though.

Every barrel I used Plum Brown on had to have at least 3 coats to look uniform. Some took 4 coats.

If I was asked, "What browning should I use on my barrel?" I would say use the Laurel Mountain browning solution.
It is a cold process that takes several days of repeatedly applying a small amount and then letting it rust, rubbing off the loose rust and then reapplying another small amount.

It needs a humid room to work well.

When finished, the barrel (and other parts) will have a smooth uniform dark brown coating that, once oiled, is nearly bulletproof and will last forever.
 
+1 on the L.M.F. browning solution. Have done 4 barrels with the same bottle and getting ready to do a fifth. Have had good results with all.
:thumbsup: :hatsoff:
 
I'l cast another vote for LMF's browning solution very easy to use and gives grest results. It can be hard to get an even color with BC's plum brown as its hard to heat large parts like barrels to an even temp. Always comes out streaky and I don't like the fumes the stuff gives off.
 
I would use Wahkon Bay Tru-Brown. Use the 24 hr proccess & a Dixcel wheel to card. End result is a durable deep rich dark brown finish. Have done ? 35- rifles I guess with it & always ends up a nice job. It is imperative the barrel be free of all dirt, grease, wax, fingerprints, etc. I use rubber nitrile gloves & I change gloves every time I pick the barrel up. Takes me usually 7 consecutive applications, 3 hrs apart & it is done. No sweat box or heating of the barrel, best done in the humid warm days or a steamy bathroom with temp about 85 deg. + in there.
:thumbsup: The warmer & more humid it is, the better it works.
 
Just browned my first barrel and lock with LMF. I would advise taking the sights off before starting the browning process so you can get an even coat from the breech to the muzzle.

I stopped my rag briefly at the sights and got light spots that wouldn't brown. I was able to go back after I finished with the barrel, clean the light spots with acetone and rebrown.

The bottom line with LMF is don't go over the same spot twice while making an application or you will remove some of what you put on and have a light spot.

Correct unevenness with subsequent coats. Even though the browning job might look awful after two coats it will even out and when you get to 4 or 5 coats.

I browned on a couple of rainy days, in my unheated shop, in December. I left the first coat over night, second and subsequent coats 5 hrs or so each before carding. Came out real nice.
 
Always brown everything by itself. No sights on barrel, lock all apart, etc. I wipe with solution just wet, not dripping wet, leave it sit & don't go back over it, when it is time to card it, do so & then repeat proceedure.. :thumbsup:

Wipe with one even motion down the barrel, usually top flat & 2 adjacent at one time, then get the side flat on each side with one motion each. sometimes dampen a Qtip & get in the sight dovetail, any puddles I dab off with a cotton ball.
 
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