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10 ga Turkey Pattern

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bingo1952

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I took the Pedersoli double out today to shoot a few patterns sinc e I am planning to try for a Tom this season. I shot this with 3-3/4 drams and 1-5/8 oz of #6 shot at 40 yards with the modified barrel The cylinder bored barrel is about done for at 30 yards. It is a heavy recoiler with this load and I wouldn't want a steady diet of them but for turkey hunting it should do just fine. :thumbsup:
turkey1.jpg
 
Try reducing that powder charge to 3 1/4 drams to reduce recoil, and tighten the pattern. :thumbsup:

You will get more range and energy on target with the cylinder bore barrel using #5 shot, by at least 5 more yards. Again reduce that powder charge to 3 1/4 drams to improve the pattern, and reduce recoil. With that much shot, you won't be short of shot to fill the pattern at these yardages. In fact, if you use a 3:4 ratio of powder to shot, you can load 90 grains( 3 1/4 drams) of powder, and put 120 grains volume( 1 7/8 oz.) of shot for a heavy turkey load.
 
Runnball How is tour load stacked? I shoot a 10 gage built by the same company. I don't use heavy overshot cards or fiber cushion wads. I find they will blow a hole in the pattern.I know what you mean about the recoil it's intense. I load 90 grains of black over over 2 overshot cards follower by 2 0z. of number 6's. I know the shot charge is over the max recommened but it works out ok for me. I get a good pattern out to 30 yards with the improved barrel .I won't take a shot any farther out. I also found the I have to aim 5 or 6 inches to the right to center the pattern. Best of luck with your turkey season. Ssettle
 
Excellent target...I downloaded & saved it a couple years ago myself, printed off a couple hundred copies
 
I am using an overpowder, 1 cushion wad separated into 4 layers, and an overshot card. I may give the same load a go less the cushion wad and see if it does better.
 
shoot 40 yards with your mod and 30 with your cyl barrel?

I'd sure love to see these loads laid out. Got a dandy load out of the mod to 25 yards. Tried some paper shot cups today to no effect, actually hurt more then it helped. Can't for the life of me remember my cyl bore load, what I thought it was it wasnt and it's blowing it out. Gonna try some more tinkering tomorrow. Even then with the load I had 20+ was pushing it for my cyl bore.

So if you dont mind sharing, in detail (and peferably ounces....never have caught on to drams yet lol) sure would be greatly appreciated.

Didnt take any pics today but I sure will tomorrow and post them.

Oh btw, one turkey so far with the longbow in Nebraska. Kansas is should be on here the end of the week or so.
 
SS,

I've also noticed a lot movement in my mod barrel. The load I'm shooting right now is great to 25.

105 grains pyrodex RS
thin os card
1/8 nitro card
1 1/2oz shot
1 thin os card.

Also failed to mention the thing fires everytime...unlike last spring where we had some firing issues (and more then a couple pop and no bang longbeards). Replacing the nipples, and reworking the hammers fixed this last fall.
 
YOu have too much powder, and you are blowing the patterns. Reduce that to 80 grains, and if the patterns are still not coming together, then get them down to 70 grains. Review the loading data in Bob Spenser's site.
http://members.aye.net/~bspen/index.html You can use a 3:4 ratio of powder to shot, but more than that may not be productive. If you use 80 grains of whatever, you can use that 1 5/8 oz load( 120 grains by volume/weight), but I would back the shot load down to 110 grain, or 1 1/2 oz. of shot.
 
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I've been working on loads with an older pedersoli 10 ga double that's on loan to me. Purty disapointing so far. One barrel is slightly choked and does better than the open one. Still experimenting, but 80gr of 2f and 1 1/2 oz of #5s proved acceptable for turkeys out to 20 yards only. I had better luck with #3 steel but not much.

Next time I take it out I'm gonna try dropping my powder charge to 70 gr and see what happens. Also I have some new wads to play with. And just like Ssettle's gun mine shoots left by quite a bit.

Hopefully by this time next year I'll be hunting turkeys with a proper fowler. :thumbsup: GW
 
Paul,

Well I went down to 80 grains from the blown 105 grain loads and did notice they didnt blow however they really didnt get any tighter.

Still a barely 20 yard gun in the cyl and an ok 25 yard pattern gun in the mod barrel.

Eagerly awaiting roundballs loads so I can run them and see how she goes.
 
Then go down in powder charges 5 grains at a time, until you find a load that does improve patterns. Its there.
 
Paul, started at 105 and went down to 80 in 5 grain increments...will try going down more but am running into a concern and one small problem doing this.

First, having enough to still kill a bird is atleast for now starting to become a concern, though I'm sure still doable at this point.

The 2nd is a little more interesting. I've noticed as I drop my powder charge and keep the 1 1/2 oz of shot, my patterns keep dropping and dropping and dropping.

My mod barrel I think I'm going to keep at the 105 and 1 1/2 as atleast at 25 yards is quite a nice pattern. I'll post a pic tomorrow of it. I'm sure it can be approved upon maybe little, if nothing more to gain a few yards...something I'm hoping these paper shotcups may do though however are not proving to be working out atleast at this point in that game.

The cyl barrel goign down to 100 grains and really 95 and 90 grains shows a very similar decent pattern at 20 yards so atleast at this point of the testing I'm sticking to the 100 grains to keep from having to aim differentingly with each barrel to drastically or atleast with these two loads if at all.

I'll keep trying to go lower and post my results.

I did fail to mention so far I've stuck to a 1/8 nitro full cushion with an overshot card over the cushion, then shot then the overshot as my load structure for now. Havent gone back to try the 3 or 4 overshots for over powder while reducing the powder.....any other load idears? Really hoping this guy comes through with his load info specifically....or maybe I just missed it in the post?
 
That full cushion wad is still too much. It bumping your shot after it leaves the barrel. Cut that cushion wad in half or in thirds, or eliminate its use all together. Its not needed. Just grease up a cleaning patch and run it down the barrel after seating the over shot cards. The grease protects the bore from rust, during your hunt, it slicks the walls of the bore so that lead does not scrape off it, harming subsequent patterns because of the constantly building but changing lengths and layers of streaks of lead in the bore, and it will soften the residue of the powder for easier cleaning.

If you want to use paper to make shotcups, you have to use fairly thick paper, like that used in coin wrappers, or index cards stock. Use the next gauge smaller wad on the inside of the cup to help form the base, which is folded over the end, and in my case, dipped in melted parafin wax, then struck on wax paper on my counter top to cool and harden with the end closed tight.

I cut slits in the mouth of the cups to create " petals" similar to what you see in modern plastic cups. This acts as an air brake, and allows the wad to separate from the shot quickly on leaving the barrel. Without the slits, you are sending a shotgun slug, made of paper covered shot, down range.

This is the same problem you get from using the full cushion wads in a load without paper cups. If you think in terms of NASCAR racing, those boys call it " drafting ", where the car behind is actually able to gain speed on the front car, by staying in its draft or " vacuum", and then slingshotting itself past the front car on the inside of a turn, when the vacuum is going to swing outside the turn's edge, anyway.

Its actually a law of physics, that explains gravity, in that all large or heavy objects tend to pull lighter objects to them. The lead shot, on leaving the muzzle, is heavier, of course, than the cushion wad, even when the wad is wet with lube. The wad is therefore pulled into the back of the shot column, where it bumps it. The bump has the same effect as a cue ball does hitting a rack of balls on the pool table: the balls go everywhere, but straight ahead. As the shot spreads, air enters this vacuum, and the vacuum vanishes, typically in 9 feet, or so. But the damage is already done. Jim Rackham's advice on using only OS cards to build a shotgun load is good advice because iT RECOGNIZES that the Laws of Physics are not suspended for BP shotguns. By putting holes in each of the OS cards, air is able to separate cards from each other almost as soon as they leave the muzzle, so that they DON"T follow and bump the shot column by being sucked into the back of the shot, and hanging in the draft, or vacuum created by the shot when it exits the barrel.
 
runnball, I found one of my old turkey head targets using my load and just overshot cards and I got 39 hits in the head at 30 yards with my improve choke barrel. it isn't always that good so I still won't shoot past that yardage. I know someone said to lower you powder charge to improve your pattern but as you already know the energy you'll need to make a clean kill will go out the window out to 40 yards. I read here sometime back about someone using cornmeal muffin mix I believe they said the muffin mix acts alittle like glue to help hold the pattern together longer but I never got to trying it yet. I like to use paper shotcups in my loads but it's just to help with loading and getting everything squared up when I push it down the barrel, although I do see a slight improvement in my pattern on the improved barrel; it doesn't do anything for my open choke barrel.... You better get on the move turkey season is almost here..Good Luck. :thumbsup: SSettle
 

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