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10-Ring Precision 45 Flintlock Pistol

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FishDFly

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Can anyone provide some information on a 10-Ring Precision Inc 45 Caliber Flintlock target pistol. It has a Bill Large barrel. These were made in San Antonio and are no longer made, but the maker is still in business.

I am looking for a flintlock pistol for paper competition and was wondering about the quality of this pistol.

Any help would be appreciated, as I am really trying to buy an American made gun.

Thanks

RDE
 
Most paper competitive matches consist of cap lock, flint lock and revolver.

If you were limited to one pistol of each:

1. Cap lock
2. Flint lock
3. Revolver

What would your singular choice be for each category? Cost is always a consideration, but as with all things, there is a limit to the budget.

Thanks

RDE
 
Revolver: A Prime reason is I like the multiple shots,and a "58" Remington because of quicker cylinder change. Sometimes you need a single shot, and other times you need to spray and pray.
 
Assuming you're talking strictly about production guns:
1. Cap lock - Pedersoli LePage (got that one)or one of their other target pistols.
2. Flint lock - Again, Pedersoli LePage but the rifled flintlock version
3. Revolver - One of the Remington '58 clones, most likely a Uberti, but I'd want to inspect the individual pistol before I bought it (Friday afternoon gun syndrome).
 
Richard Eames said:
Most paper competitive matches consist of cap lock, flint lock and revolver.

If you were limited to one pistol of each:

1. Cap lock
2. Flint lock
3. Revolver

What would your singular choice be for each category? Cost is always a consideration, but as with all things, there is a limit to the budget.

Thanks

RDE

Where I'm from a shooter doesn't need all three types of handguns to shoot a Match. Our local Club runs a BP League where single-shots are separated from revolvers. The single-shots can be percussion or flint and the revolvers can be C&B or centerfire conversions. Each type of gun has it's own Division, and a shooter can bring & shoot just one gun to a Match.

Most of the time one of the single-shot guys takes the Match. Every-so-often I take it with my Walker.

As to your question:

Caplock is a tie between the T/C Patriot with a new uncracked handmade stock and the Pedersoli.

Flint I'd have to give the nod to the Pedersoli.

Revolver is my Walker, but a close second would be the '58 Remmy Buffalo with 12" barrel and adjustable sights.

Dave
 
I have a 10 Ring Flint pistol I use in competition all the time, both locally and at Friendship twice a year. Have won several National Metals with it. A good shooter. Use 20 gr. of 3F Goax with a pre-lubed pillow ticking patch, and a .440 ball. Still use the standard grips that came with it. Hope this helps, Jim
 
Since National Competition requires all three types, the most seen in reasonably priced guns are: Cap and Flint: Yazel, with 10 Ring (no longer made) close behind, Revolver: Ruger Old Army, sometimes reworked to a smaller caliber, usually .36. There are exceptions to this, but I believer this would represent the majority. Hope this helps, Jim
 
Jim/OH,

Thanks for the response.

I talked with builder this morning and I bought the pistol from the people who had it. The pistol grades out at 95% and is complete with the box and instructions.

Looking forward to receiving it.

Thanks again,

RDE
 
Thanks to all for your responses.

I ended up buying a Flint 10X and with a luck I was able to get a Percussion 10X with matching serial number to the Flint.

I really did not need the Percussion 10X, but they were a set and I was not going to split the pair apart. Matched pistols, each in their own box with the instructions, I thank my other half for understanding. One reason for buying the 10X is the builder said he would repair the pistol(s) as long as he was around. I love my Pedersoli, but if you need service, you need it.

Jim/OH,

Ruger questons:

1. Send an OA to Ruger to change the sights for
target work? if not who?
2. Re-work the trigger, lighten pull, who?
3. Ruger OA to 36? Who?
4. Ruger OA, blue or stainless? I have heard
that the blue is lighter in weight than the
stainless and is preferable for targer work,
any truth?

Again thanks to all,

RDE
 
To change the front sight for a taller one (that is what is needed on most Old Army's that shoot too high) just write to Ruger and tell them the problem. Apparently they deal with it all the time and they will send you a new front sight insert to put in (it is just pinned in). That is on the stainless steel ones, not sure about the blued ones. The trigger you can do yourself, just change the stock spring to a lighter one (I used a cut down spring out of a ball point pen). Also you can drop a buckshot in the center of the spring to act as a trigger stop that helps a lot. To change one to .36 cal. you are talking big bucks, so be sure you want to do it. But I do know several people at Friendship that have done it. A fellow in Fremont, Nebraska can do an excellent job if you want to spring the cash for it. His name is Chris Hagemann. Try email to: hagemann @ tvsonline. net or phone: (402) 727-5512. I use a stainless steel one, and it is a fine shooter, not sure if the blued one is lighter or not. Surely not by much. Hope this helps, Jim
 
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