1796 pattern light cavalry saber

[wmaser]

A work in progress. My first attempt at forging a sword blade inspired by the 1796 pattern British light cavalry saber. Still have to harden and temper the blade, dye the leather, make the scabbard and shine everything up.

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[Wes/Tex]

Looks good to me. Some originals had the langets ground or filed off, depending on the cavalryman or their officers. The main whine about 'slash' vs. 'thrust' still hasn't been settled...may never be. Yours looks very well done, congrats!

 

[pargent]

:thumbsup:

 

[Rifleman1776]

Yes, looks great.

langets

Wassa langet?

 

[ZUG]

Let us know how it holds it's shape after hardening & tempering. I would think you would not leave the handle on for the hardening & tempering part - am I correct :hmm: ?

 

[wmaser]

Langet usually refers to the long iron strips nailed to a polearm below the socket, such as on a halbert. In the case of a sword, they are the protrusions on the guard on either side of the blade. When sheathed they lap over the mouth of the scabbard.

 

[wmaser]

You are correct. The blade will be stripped of everything in order to heat treat. I'm a little nervous about warping or cracking too. I'm considering clamping angle irons on either side of the blade to help stiffen it. I will also align the quench bath with magnetic north. I've been told that helps.
Anyone have any suggestions? I'll post the results, good or bad.

 

[satx78247]

NICE WORK. = I'm IMPRESSED & WISH that I was that talented.

BEST WISHES on the tempering/finishing/making scabbard/etc.

yours, satx

 

[ohio ramrod]

Make sure you have it vertical when you quench. Don't quench it in a horizontal position or it will curl up. I learned this the hard way on knives. :idunno:

 

[LRB]

looks very good. What steel did you use? Magnetic north quenching is a complete and total myth that, although it does no harm, it is not worthy of any extra effort or consideration. Warp is a product of uneven heating or cooling, or poor prepping of the steel before the quenching process. Warp can be straightened in the SECOND temper process, or during extra temper heats using braces as you described, or by heating the spine blue at the area of the warps apex, holding the blade a tad over straight, then pouring water on it. Just do not allow the spine heat to migrate to the edge.

 

[wmaser]

Thanks, everyone, for the comments.

Wick, I know you don't approve, but I forged this blade from a piece of steel cut from a leaf spring of an old Ford truck. 90% of the blades I forge are from leaf springs. Dozens of my knives are in circulation, locally, and are known for their durability and ability to hold an edge.

Granted, the blade in question is ten times the length of a standard knife blade and, I suspect, much more prone to warp or crack but it is a medium that I am familiar with and I'll never know unless I give it a shot.

 

[Rifleman1776]

Langet usually refers to the long iron strips nailed to a polearm below the socket, such as on a halbert. In the case of a sword, they are the protrusions on the guard on either side of the blade. When sheathed they lap over the mouth of the scabbard.

Got it. Thanks.

 

[LRB]

I only disapprove because of the risk of losing a blade, and a lot of work to micro cracks. If you're willing to gamble you're rep on it, it's not my affair.

 

[wmaser]

I got around to hardening and tempering the saber blade. Here is the report I promised,

This is the heat tent I used. A propane burner at one end and the blade inserted in the exhaust end.(that's the end where I lost a good bit of hair) It took about twenty minutes to achieve a nice even red glow.

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The blade was then quenched in a barrel full of water, achieving an even hardness. A file would not scratch it. I had a slight warpage at the tip of the blade. This is the seven inch portion where the spine is drawn to an edge at the top of the blade. I will attempt to straighten it on the second temper, as described by Wick. If unsuccessful, I can live with it as is, being hardly noticable unless you are looking for it.I drew temper to a light straw with a propane burner.

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After the straightening attempt I just need to shine everything up, put it back together and finish the scabbard.

 

[flattail]

:thumbsup: Glad you didn't get a major warp. That 5160 seems to WANT to warp at times. Looking forward to seeing the finished piece.
Ed

 

[wmaser]

As promised, here's the finished saber. Hardening and tempering went pretty well except for the slight warp at the tip. The warp came out with the second tempering and some coaxing with c- clamps. As is often the case,(at least in my experience) the steel scabbard is the most difficult part of the project. A straight sword scabbard with one seam is hard enough but this one with the curve required two seams, "Seems" like it took forever.

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[DOUBLEDEUCE 1]

WOW!!! :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:

 

[Wes/Tex]

Fantastic job, no matter how long it took. Save original inspection marks and engraving, looks like it just cam out of the cavalry barracks! :thumbsup:

 

[LRB]

Exceptionally nice. I have never tackled an all metal sheath, except for very small ones. I can imagine it was a real PITA being that long. Looks like you did very well with it.
5160 doesn't warp any more than any other steel if well prepared for the hardening process. If from a spring, it does require good stress relief.

 

[MSW]

way cool!